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Infrared Cure Lamps

Instructions and Manual
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Getting Familiar With The Infrared Cure Lamp System

Read the instructions and complete the Practice Steps below to perfect your technique, before proceeding with your project.

Maintaining Constant Temperatures on thin gauge and small parts:

Thin gauge metal and small pieces are easily cured with your light but must be constantly monitored for temperature and light distance in order to prevent the powder from burning or discoloring.

Strip an old valve cover, timing cover or other thin gauge metal. Hang this from your wire clothesline and position the light on one end of the piece. Monitor the temperature until you reach 380° F. Adjust the light distance to hold 380° F. Now set your timer and continually monitor the temperature to maintain 380° F (plus or minus 10°) for 15 minutes.

After you have successfully held 380° F. for 15 minutes move the light to the next section (the width of the light casing) and adjust the light distance to hold 380° F. for an additional 15 minutes. Continue this technique of maintaining the temperature, setting your timer and moving to the next area until the entire piece has been cured.

NOTE: You will notice the temperature may rise above 380° F. directly in front of the light in as little as 5 minutes, simply move the light back a few inches to maintain 380° F. Thin gauge metal and small pieces must be constantly monitored for temperature and light distance. On a valve cover with the light positioned at one end you will begin to flow out the powder in 5 minutes and will have to move the light a distance of about 5-6 inches from the piece. At this distance you will notice the temperature will level out. If it falls below your starting temperature refer to the correct chart below for the time at this new temperature and set your timer. After some practice you will be able to position the light to obtain a higher temperature to speed the curing.

Maintaining Constant Temperatures on large castings, transmission housings, rear housings, etc:

Thick stampings such as alternator brackets and radiator supports, along with heavy castings, such as rear end housings, will hold constant temperatures easier than sheet metal. These are the items the light was designed for. You will be able to quickly determine the correct light distance, temperature and cure time for the color of your choice.

Strip an old brake drum, wheel or piece of shop equipment such as a bench vise. Support the piece properly. Start with the light at 6-8" and monitor temperature after 5 minutes. These heavy pieces will require a longer time to come up to temperature, due to the piece absorbing the heat. A brake drum will require about 8 minutes to reach 370° F. After you reach a temperature in the middle range of the cure chart, for your color choice, you will find the light may not need to be moved further from the piece but only into the next area.

Selecting Temperature & Cure Time

The key to successful curing is close monitoring of the temperature. The included infrared thermometer will give you this precision temperature reading while the adjustable stand will give you the freedom to move the light around the object for total curing. Follow the charts below for accurate curing of the HotCoatTM powders. If you powder coat with Translucent and Specialty powders you must maintain a minimum of 365° F. for 25 minutes as per the chart below. For Solid and Clear colors a minimum of 320° F. for 15 minutes must be held. Curing at higher temperatures on the charts is acceptable as long as the temperature is held for the specified time.

Curing With The Infrared Light

1. The objective is to maintain a constant temperature for a sufficient length of time to properly cure the powder (365° – 400° F. for translucent and specialty colors and 320° – 400° F. for standard solid colors and clears). The difference in cure time is due to the chemical make up of the powders. Be sure to use the correct chart for the powder you’re using. A cooking timer is recommended to monitor curing times.

NOTE: It is best to select a cure temperature in the middle of therange indicated on the cure charts. If you go over 400° F. you risk burning the powder, particularly for sheet metal items that heat up quickly. Also, some colors such as the solid reds and whites are prone to burn at temperatures over 400° F. Once you have more experience with the system you can work closer to the upper range of cure temperatures to speed your work.

NOTE: If your temperature drops by (-) 10 degrees or increases as high as (+) 10 degrees over your target temperature, this is O.K. as the HotCoat powders will still properly cure. The HotCoat powders have some resistance to over bake as long as you do not exceed the 400 degree mark for extended periods of time.

2. Before powder is applied, position the light 4" from the piece and note the temperature on the part after 3-5 minutes. If the temperature is over 400° F. move the light further from the part by an inch or two.

NOTE: Do not operate the light closer than 3". This will cause the temperature to rise quickly and burn the powder. For thin gauge metal or small parts the surface will heat up very quickly. Therefore, the temperature must be constantly monitored and the light distance adjusted to stay below 400° F. For large parts, the piece will heat up slowly and maintain a fairly constant temperature due to heat absorption. You still have to monitor the temperature regularly but it will be much more stable.

3. Take another reading 3 minutes later and repeat your temperature readings every 3 minutes. Adjust the light distance from the part if necessary until you have achieved a consistent temperature reading in the range for your powder. Make a note of the distance and temperature and find the cure time on the table. This is your starting point when you actually begin to cure the powder.

4. Remove the light, allow the piece to cool and then apply the powder according to the directions supplied with the HotCoat gun.

5. Position the light at one end of the piece at the distance you have previously determined.

NOTE: Always cure parts starting from the bottom up, then begin at the top and work your way back down to the bottom for the other side (if needed). For parts oriented from side to side, work one end to the other, then back on the other side. When curing tubular objects such as motorcycle frames or driveshafts, even though all sides may melt and flow out at the same time, you should still cure both sides.

6. Once the heated area is up to temperature, set your timer. Check the temperature about every three minutes to make sure it is stable. Adjust the light distance or adjust the cure time where appropriate.

7. When it’s time to move the light, just move it the width of the lamp case into the next adjacent area to be cured. Repeat the temperature monitoring and adjust light distance and/or cure time where necessary.

NOTE: You will notice the powder melting, or flowing out, outside the lights focused area. This is normal, and you can verify the cure by measuring the temperature in front of the light, outside the focused area. If the temperature is adequate for a proper cure, simply pass through that area into the next adjacent area when you move the light.

8. Check the cure once everything has cooled

Testing For A Complete Cure

This test is done by taking a clean, soft rag with a little MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) on it and lightly rubbing an inconspicuous spot 2 or 3 times. If you notice the color easily transfers to the rag, you have an incomplete cure. Proceed to the troubleshooting chart below for proper curing.

Troubleshooting

Element Replacement

With proper care, the heater elements are designed to provide long-term, dependable service for approximately 5000 hours. By following these simple instructions you can help insure that you receive the maximum possible life from your infrared curing system.

Removal

1. 1. Unplug unit and remove from stand at the cross arm leaving the cross arm attached to the stand.


2. 2. Place your infrared light unit on a solid object such as a workbench or table.


3. 3. The light should be positioned on its back with the elements up and supported with blocks so the unit will not shift while you are working on it.


4. 4. Use a medium width, flat blade screwdriver, and remove the four screws that hold the two end covers and grill in place. (Photo A)
5. 5. Remove both end covers and grill to expose the elements.


6. 6. Using an 11/32" end wrench gently loosen the outside mounting/locking nuts at both ends of the element. (Photo B)


7. 7. With your fingers, grasp the element at the ceramic ends and gently pull upwards. (Photo C)



NOTE: The element mounts may be slightly spring loaded. Once clear of the contacts, tip one end of the element up to clear the top edge of the unit then remove the element from the housing.




IMPORTANT: Use caution not to break the quartz glass, which could create a sharp edge that could cut you.



8. 8. Dispose of used element by wrapping it in the shipping material that your new replacement element was shipped in. Then dispose with common trash.

Installation of New Element

1. 1. Carefully unpack your replacement element. Inspect for damage. Save packaging material for use in disposal of your old element.


2. 2. Using your 11/32" end wrench, GENTLY loosen the exterior or outside retaining nuts on the threaded studs on both ends of the element. DO NOT ALLOW THE MOUNTING STUD TO TURN.


3. 3. Using your 11/32" end wrench carefully and GENTLY snug the inside lock nut next to the ceramic end pieces. DO NOT ALLOW THE MOUNTING STUD TO TURN. (Photo E)


4. 4. Holding the element by the ceramic ends, tip in one side of the element into the unit’s housing adjusting to the side to allow clearance for the other side to enter the housing. Avoid touching the quartz glass directly. (Photo D)


5. 5. Once inside the housing, mount the element on the element holder and gently tighten the outside retaining nuts.



NOTE: The mount may be slightly spring loaded. GENTLY spread mounts with fingers to allow studs to lower fully into the proper mounting position. DO NOT FORCE THE ELEMENT INTO POSITION as this may break the quartz glass, ceramic end caps, studs or ceramic insulators.



6. 6. Once the element is in the proper position, use your 11/32" end wrench to GENTLY snug up the mounting lock nuts.


7. 7. Re-mount the grill and end caps to the unit’s housing. Remember the end caps are held on by sheet metal screws. DO NOT over tighten.


8. 8. Re-mount unit to the cross arm and stand.


9. 9. Clean elements with a soft clean rag and alcohol to remove finger prints or contaminants.


10. 10. Plug unit into an appropriate power supply and test for proper operation.

Additional Element Maintenance and Performance Information

• - Elements should be cleaned with alcohol to remove human or other oils.


• - If the element gets powder or paint overspray on it the element may be cleaned by using a fine non-woven abrasive pad when cool (example: Scotchbright pads or fine steel wool).


• - Element mounting points should be checked for tightness frequently.


• - Do not operate this unit at voltage higher than specified.

If you have problems or questions, please call customer service for complete technical assistance
Eastwood Technical Assistance Service Department
1-800-343-9353
email: help@eastwood.com