Eastwood Chatter

  • The engine is out!

    Looks like our crew over at Penn Manor got a bit of headway done on their VW truck project. Always a great idea to clean and paint parts before you put them back in the engine bay! I'll leave the details to one of the students to explain!

    Hey Matt,
    It has been a while since we last gave you an update, so we have a lot to tell you about.  We decided to pull the engine out to thoroughly clean it and to open up some area around the shock tower.  We power washed the engine after plugging any open holes, then de-greased and painted the block bright green as visible in the pictures. we are currently reassembling the engine outside the car and plan to drop the entire thing back in upon finishing rust repair.  We realized that the damage to the shock tower is rather bad and may involve replacing the majority of the wheel well, but the other rusted locations are not bad.  We would like to do as much to the body in preparation for paint, but we do not have the facilities to paint it, so we are looking for a painter. If you have any suggestions, please feel free to share.  I have attached several pictures for the blog. The first is the removal of the engine, the second is the cleaning and the third is the painted engine.


    Sounds like they have a bit of rust repair to tackle on this truck. Im sure our blaster, welder, and rust coatings will come in handy!

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  • Even the best need guidance!

    Recently we added another "arsenal" to our auto body product line. Sometimes after hours, days, and even months of sanding filler and primer, you start to see "things". It makes you feel as if you are a shipwrecked sailor. You know the feeling, you're fine-tuning a dent that you had hit with the stud welder, laid some thin layers of filler over, and sanded diligently in between. All while running your hand along the panel to feel for low spots... before your eyes new low spots seem to "appear" and the original dent you started with seems to get even bigger!

    I've found that using a small bit of guide coat over a area you are filling or priming is very helpful in eliminating the doubts of a phantom low spot. Especially one that might show itself only after the car is painted and shiny. This is especially true for someone like myself that is a "novice" in the auto body field.

    Below I took some pictures of one of the bedsides on my 1981 VW Rabbit Pickup project. This truck originally had dealer installed bed rails that were used and abused to the max! So much so, that they had even pulled some of the threaded inserts out of the bed sides. Once I removed the bed rails, the bedsides looked similar to the water in your swimming pool after the kids have been playing in it for hours! Because I am going with a "clean" look for the truck, I will not be running bed rails in the future. This means I won't be able to hide the "waves" and oblong holes with the bed rail feet. So I began by using our hammer and dolly set to smooth out the major dents and high spots around the mounting holes. I then welded up the old mounting holes. I was then left with some smaller "waves" and low spots (and a couple pin holes in the welds), This is where the "sanding, filling, sanding more, filing more, sanding again" process occurred.

    Above you can see my first layer of Rage Extreme filler has been laid down. This Evercoat product is very user friendly. It is the first "pinhole free" body filler of it's kind according to them. I was a little skeptical, but after using it numerous spots on the body of this "field find", I had quickly forgotten about my glazing putty. I then blocked the area to 320 and I still felt like there was a small low spot right near the back end of the bedside. I sprayed the black guide coat (it also comes in TAN for those of you using a dark colored filler, or black primer) over the entire top of the bedside. I've found doing a extremely light coat over the area, holding the can about 12" away works best. You can see in the last picture it looks like a light bit of dust over the top of the beside.

    You can see in the first picture the sanding process halfway through. As you sand lightly, the majority of the guide coat sands off quite quickly. You will notice that low spots will leave behind the guide coat and pretty much outline the remaining low spot. In the second picture you can see as I had suspected, a noteworthy low spot. It is right where one of the mangled mounting holes for the bed rails was. I even took a picture of this area before I started the guide coat process (last picture in the series). Following this, I reapplied another concentrated coat of filler over the dent, block sanded to 320 again, and repeated the guide coat process. This eliminated the worries I had of having a the tops of the bedsides all wavy. I will surely be using the guide coat quite a bit when I put the body in primer next week!

    You can find the Rage Extreme filler and our new guide coats at the links below. Thanks for reading!
    Eastwood Guide Coat Black
    Eastwood Guide Coat Tan
    Evercoat Rage Xtreme Filler

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  • New Face at Eastwood

    Brief intro on Shawn Pillow and the theme of his Eastwood Blog  Click Here To Read Full Post...
  • Digging deeper into the engine bay

    Today I received another update from our friends over at Penn Manor. Seems as though they are making some progress in getting the mechanical side of things taken apart for repair. Below Penn Manor student Tyler gives us a update.

    Today's update on our progress, we have cleaned the cylinder head and intake manifold and are now cleaning the engine block. As soon as we have finished cleaning all the grime off the block, we will paint the head and valve covers then replace them. However, we would like to replace the timing belt and are working on that. I have included several more photos of what we have done thus far, if you have any suggestions or advice, feel free to share it.

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  • Strongest undercoating ever?

    With many restorations, you have to deal with rust repair. This in itself, can be a tedious task. What could make this task even more of a headache? Add in the extra factor of having to repair a rusty area that was undercoated from the factory. There is much debate as to which way is the best to remove what seems to be the "strongest coating ever known to man" (or so it feels that way every time I have to remove it!). I've personally tried many methods, from a propane torch heating it up and scraping it away, to a wire wheel on a angle grinder, to a straight up grinder. No matter how you go at it, you get either covered in the stringy mess or deal with the horrible smell when you heat that stuff up. When I came across the rust pictured on a VW I am restoring recently, I was lucky enough we had recently come out with this new product. Under Gone is designed to make this task much quicker and easier than the old "caveman-esque" ways of removing undercoating.

    I started using a screwdriver to poke around and find the rust. Once I found the areas, I needed to "dig deeper" to find the extent of the rust. I also wanted to clean a large enough area that I could cut out the cancerous areas and weld in a new patch panel. Check out the pics below of what I found when "poking around". I received this truck from a friend who told me it was "rust free" aside from some obvious rot on the floors. True to what I have learned, it is always good to poke around a bit, rather than taking the word of a previous owner!

    After picking up a few cans of Under Gone (I ended up only needing one can, but now I have more for later!), I began liberally spraying the areas of concern. The undercoating used on 70's & 80's VW's is nasty stuff! Because of this, I chose to go a little overboard and spray 2 layers of Under Gone on the areas. I sprayed the first coating on and waited until the "foaming action" was over and it had seemed to soak into the undercoating a bit. I then reapplied, and again waited for it to soak in. What I noticed was that the undercoating got much more flexible, and once I cut a edge into the area I wanted to scrape, it "peeled" off easily with the scraper. If I hit an area that seemed to be a little tough to scrape, I sprayed another bit of Under Gone on the area, let it soak in for a few minutes (perfect time for a sip of a cold beverage!), and went back at it.

    In the end, this was a much less smelly, messy, tedious job because of the Under Gone. I was able to get the pieces cut out and replacements welded back in all in the same day! Hopefully this saves a few of our readers some time and frustration. Thanks for reading and keep bringing those classic rides back to life!


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