Tag Archives: auto body

  • An Electric Restoration- Part 3 Putting Some Color on the Body

    Since the last time we checked in with Wayne he has turned his attention to the body work and paint on his Chevy S10 electric restoration project. Luckily Wayne spent the time to find a rust-free and nearly dent-free base for this project, so with a little sanding and minor body work he was ready for some Eastwood Buff Tan Urethane Primer Sealer Surfacer to seal and level the body with. After some block sanding Wayne (and his wife of course!) decided on Eastwood Pin Up Red Urethane Paint or as he calls it "lipstick red". The paint went on with little hassle and Wayne has been busy assembling the firewall and wet sanding and buffing the body. We can't wait to see some proper photos of the truck fully assembled and sitting outside the shop, that red REALLY pops!

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  • Even the best need guidance!

    Recently we added another "arsenal" to our auto body product line. Sometimes after hours, days, and even months of sanding filler and primer, you start to see "things". It makes you feel as if you are a shipwrecked sailor. You know the feeling, you're fine-tuning a dent that you had hit with the stud welder, laid some thin layers of filler over, and sanded diligently in between. All while running your hand along the panel to feel for low spots... before your eyes new low spots seem to "appear" and the original dent you started with seems to get even bigger!

    I've found that using a small bit of guide coat over a area you are filling or priming is very helpful in eliminating the doubts of a phantom low spot. Especially one that might show itself only after the car is painted and shiny. This is especially true for someone like myself that is a "novice" in the auto body field.

    Below I took some pictures of one of the bedsides on my 1981 VW Rabbit Pickup project. This truck originally had dealer installed bed rails that were used and abused to the max! So much so, that they had even pulled some of the threaded inserts out of the bed sides. Once I removed the bed rails, the bedsides looked similar to the water in your swimming pool after the kids have been playing in it for hours! Because I am going with a "clean" look for the truck, I will not be running bed rails in the future. This means I won't be able to hide the "waves" and oblong holes with the bed rail feet. So I began by using our hammer and dolly set to smooth out the major dents and high spots around the mounting holes. I then welded up the old mounting holes. I was then left with some smaller "waves" and low spots (and a couple pin holes in the welds), This is where the "sanding, filling, sanding more, filing more, sanding again" process occurred.

    Above you can see my first layer of Rage Extreme filler has been laid down. This Evercoat product is very user friendly. It is the first "pinhole free" body filler of it's kind according to them. I was a little skeptical, but after using it numerous spots on the body of this "field find", I had quickly forgotten about my glazing putty. I then blocked the area to 320 and I still felt like there was a small low spot right near the back end of the bedside. I sprayed the black guide coat (it also comes in TAN for those of you using a dark colored filler, or black primer) over the entire top of the bedside. I've found doing a extremely light coat over the area, holding the can about 12" away works best. You can see in the last picture it looks like a light bit of dust over the top of the beside.

    You can see in the first picture the sanding process halfway through. As you sand lightly, the majority of the guide coat sands off quite quickly. You will notice that low spots will leave behind the guide coat and pretty much outline the remaining low spot. In the second picture you can see as I had suspected, a noteworthy low spot. It is right where one of the mangled mounting holes for the bed rails was. I even took a picture of this area before I started the guide coat process (last picture in the series). Following this, I reapplied another concentrated coat of filler over the dent, block sanded to 320 again, and repeated the guide coat process. This eliminated the worries I had of having a the tops of the bedsides all wavy. I will surely be using the guide coat quite a bit when I put the body in primer next week!

    You can find the Rage Extreme filler and our new guide coats at the links below. Thanks for reading!
    Eastwood Guide Coat Black
    Eastwood Guide Coat Tan
    Evercoat Rage Xtreme Filler

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  • Welder Handicapped? Fix that body rust quick!

    Let's face it, welding can pretty much be considered a "art form". Many of us either have the lack of skills or the lack of experience to weld in a repair panel on the body of our project. Other times you may just not have the budget to buy a nice welder since you are just doing one small job. We recently came up with a tool that allows for patch panel replacement for the welder handicapped.

    The tool in question is our dimpling pliers. These allow for creating a nice uniformed indent in the replacement panel in which you can drill and then rivet through to attach to the original panel. Due to the way the indentation is made, the head of the rivet sits flush with the surface of the panel. Simply use a glaze coat of filler to smooth out the repair, and you have a strong repair panel without the need for a welder. This also eliminates the possibility of panel warpage when welding thin auto body sheet metal (a big part of the "art form" that is welding)! For larger panels we advise drilling holes every 1" along the edge of the replacement panel.

    We've also found these pliers can be used for many other jobs around the shop. Such as "mushrooming" drift pins/rivets found in small hinges (such as replacing those pesky pins in your vintage front opening vent windows). These are great as well to be used to make indentations for making pilot holes for plug welds when replacing a panel that you need to make a number of holes/spot welds in. (front radiator support comes to mind!)

    Check out some close ups of the pliers in action below. For your full "welder-less" panel replacement needs you may find our No-Weld panel repair kit useful. It includes all of the hand tools, panel clamps and special body panel adhesive for the DIY'er out there.

    Dimpling pliers can be seen on our website here: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-dimpling-pliers.html

    Also the full No-Weld Repair kit here: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-no-weld-panel-repair-kit.html

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