Tag Archives: Body Filler

    • Leading a Body Panel The Gene Winfield Way.

      Only a few guy from the golden age of kustomizing and hot rodding are still with us, and even less are still working on cars. One of the best is Gene Winfield and even today, well into his 80's he's still traveling the world kustomizing old cars and teaching classes about metal shaping, leading, and anything you want to know about custom cars. I was lucky enough to catch up with him at one of his recent metal working seminars to get the process he uses to apply lead to a panel.  Click Here To Read Full Post...
    • How to Paint Your Car- The Basic Steps and Methods Uncovered

      Painting a car is one of the most misunderstood parts of our hobby. It can be a daunting process to sand off the paint on your car, but it’s one of those jobs that things must get worse to get better.   Click Here To Read Full Post...
    • Jaded- The Story of Kevin Tetz's '66 Mustang Project

      Jaded…… yes I am, and so is the name of my car. It’s a 1966 Mustang Coupe 6 cylinder, three speed trans, 4 lug turd that was rescued from the tin-worms to be the mule for many technical articles for car magazines over the years since 2003.  Click Here To Read Full Post...
    • How to Fill and Shave Unused Holes in Your Project

      When building a custom, or resto-mod vehicle one of the most common modifications you can do is to "shave" or fill unused holes in the body of the vehicle. While I was waiting on metal to finish the Custom Running Board Build on Project Pile House, I decided to start shaving some of the unused holes in the bed of the truck. Since this truck was used as a farm truck most of its life, it's had countless brackets, hooks, and other do-dads added that left holes when I removed them. Even though the truck looks pretty rough in its current state, I have pipe dreams of this thing being a nice, solid truck someday, so shaving these unused holes is still progress!

      There are a few ways to fill unused holes in the body of your car or truck. The techniques really vary on the size of the holes. The key tip is to make sure you take the time to setup your welder for nice flat spot welds and leave time for the metal to cool between each weld.

      The easiest holes to fill are small holes about the diameter of a pen or smaller. For these types of holes I start by cleaning the area around the hole with an Angle Grinder and Flap Disc. Sheet metal on the body of cars and trucks is pretty thin (usually 18-22 gauge). So you won't have much forgiveness if you try to pile weld in the hole and you can end up with a bigger hole than you started with! For this reason I always like to use Copper Backers and Welders Helpers to back up and quickly fill the hole. MIG wire doesn't stick to the copper backer directing the weld to the edges of the hole and quickly filling small holes. Be sure to hit the trigger of the welder for a few seconds at a time. Properly adjusted MIG welders should make filling small holes only take a few seconds. A trick I use while the metal is still hot, is to take a Hammer and Dolly and flatten out the spot welds while they're still hot and soft. This will save you time and unneeded heat into the panel when you finish grind the panel with a flap disc.

      Shaving larger holes and openings in the body takes a little more time and care, but can be done with minimal tools. I again started by cleaning the area with a flap disc and angle grinder, then I took some metal from our Patch Panel Kit and traced the opening I was filling from behind.

      Once I had the basic shape, I roughly cut it out with Tin Snips. A grinder or power metal shears would work as well if desired(I've found for small pieces that tin snips work best). With the shape rough cut, I took the small piece to a Belt Sander or Grinder and carefully sanded the metal until it was just smaller than the opening I was filling (leave a small gap for the weld to bridge across).

      Once the patch panel is a good fit, I used a Magnetic Welding Jig to hold the metal in place for the first couple tack welds. Once the patch panel is lightly tacked, I removed the magnet and again use a copper backer or welders helper while spot welding around the hole. When welding these larger holes you need to make sure you jump around and weld in an "X" pattern allowing the panel to cool in between welds. Like the smaller holes, I like to hammer the welds with a hammer and dolly to flatten them out as much as possible.

      Once the hole has been filled and all of the gaps are closed, I took a flap disc and blended the weld into the surrounding metal, again stopping along the way to allow the metal to cool and avoid panel warpage.

      With some practice you can shave and fill holes on the body of your project and leave no trace of your work. Below you can see how the repair area is almost invisible and would only take a little more sanding and a small swipe of body filler to have the panel ready for primer and paint.

      Now that I have a few holes shaved on the bed of Pile House, I have officially caught the "smooth" bug and I'm already looking for other unneeded holes to fill and clean up the overall look of this project. Stay tuned for more updates as we keep working on turning this farm truck into a head turner!

      -Matt/EW

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    • Parking lot Gems

      As the weather gets nicer, we find ourselves driving our projects (both finished and unfinished) to work. I love walking through our parking lot occasionally and checking out some of the neat rides we regularly have parked here on a nice warm day! Below is 2 I spotted yesterday and thought everyone might enjoy.

      First up is one of our "R&D" guys, Mark Robidoux. When he isn't brainstorming, testing, and designing; you can see him cruising around in this fully restored beauty that he built from the ground-up in 1991. For those not familiar, this is a 1968 Camaro Convertible. Mark replaced just about every body panel with new as he was putting it together, as with most of us.. he didn't want to have to restore this car twice!

      Powering this beauty is a rebuilt original 327cid motor. Some highlights to this power plant are: port/polished 202 heads, balanced rotating internals, performance Cams, etc.  Years later, Mark designed and perfected our extremely popular HotCoat Powder Coating system. As with anyone here at Eastwood at the time, Mark went "hog-wild" and powdercoated most anything he could fit in a "household" oven. Using a number of our Standard Hot Coat Colors he coated all suspension components and even went as far as disassembling the transmission and cylinder heads and powder coating them! 70,000 miles later and this restoration is still looking as fresh as it did the day Mark finished it!

      Next up is Nick Capinski our "Beetle Guy". The day I took these pics he had driven his 1975 Super Beetle Convertible. Nick repainted this car himself a number of years ago. He used our full line of Sandpaper/Abrasive Discs. Then to smooth out any minor imperfections Nick found the Evercoat Z-Grip Body Filler went on quite easily and was a treat to sand out. Along any body seams our Seam Sealer Kit was used to seal and protect those joints/seams in the body and chassis. Lastly, Nick gave the engine bay a nice look by applying Eastwood's Underhood Black.

      As you can see this beautiful spring day, convertibles seemed to be the trend here in our employee lot! Stay tuned for more cool rides that roll through Eastwood this summer!

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