With Eastwood Chassis Black ( I prefer the Extreme version) and Eastwood you can make your drivetrain parts look like new. I use this combo anytime I have an engine or transmission out of a car. You can't beat the "factory fresh" look with this combo.
Tag Archives: Chassis Black
We take every review seriously, and we read them all. You can check just about any product on our site and see that we have reviews from REAL customers. This review came in from John Gunnell recently where he reviewed our Chassis Black paint and had great things to say! We love your feedback, so don't forget to hit a product after you've used it, and give it a review!
Here's what John had to say: "Snowed today, so I decided that rather than drive to my shop, I would bring home some parts to a customer’s car and clean them up and paint them at home. Over the years I have tried all kinds of stuff to paint chassis parts. At the suggestion of a friend, I recently tried the Tractor Paint that they sell at local Fleet Farm stores. This is a thick paint that gives good coverage, but it always ran. Just before Christmas, Eastwood hit me with a sale on many items combined with free shipping, so I put in a large end-of-year order. I bought some of their Extreme Chassis Black Pimer and Extreme Chassis Black spray. Now, I had tried Chassis Black some time ago, but I could not believe how good the latest formulation is. I do not know what they did to it, but the paint lept on the parts as if it was powder coat and it barely dripped, if at all. These paints are not cheap, but if they continue to work like they did tonight, I’ll keep buying and using them. I was really impressed. And I think that the owner of the car will be impressed, too."
Read more Gunner's Garage blog posts HERE.
Mark here in R&D has been a busy guy! Between his job designing, testing, and bringing great Eastwood products to your home, he has been restoring this 1985 Monte Carlo SS. Working weekends and evenings over the winter and this summer, he has been able to put together a pretty sweet Monte! Here are some of the specs and great products he used along the way. Enjoy!
1985 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS
355cid Vortec small block
Built, TH200 tranny
GM rear with 3:73 gears and Powertrax posi unit
New interior, 2”cowl hood
Metal fab work on quarters, rockers, etc
The body was painted with Eastwood Gray Urethane Primer, block sanded and spray with Eastwood Muscle Color Urethane Can Am Classic White paint.
It had a 2.5” drop in front, 1.75” in rear, boxed control arms with the Eastwood Mig 175 and fitted with urethane bushings.
The frame, suspension components and rear were media blasted with the Eastwood 100lb Media blaster and crushed glass media. Those parts were then sprayed with Eastwood Self Etch Primer and top coated with Eastwood Original Chassis Black. New rotors, master cylinder, calipers and drums naturally were finished in Eastwood Detail Gray, followed by stainless steel hard brake lines and new rubber hoses.
Under the hood was detailed with Eastwood'sSpray Gray, Aluma Blast, Detail Gray, Under Hood Black, Internal Frame Coating. The engine was painted with Universal Aluminum Ceramic Engine Paint, and Universal Gloss Black Ceramic Engine Paint on the brackets accessories, pulleys, etc
Now that he has 2 nice finished classic cars in his garage, the question is which one does he drive!?!
I have to admit, other than my well-know vintage wheel obsession, I have a close second obsession in cleaned, detailed engine bays. Nothing "grinds my gears" more than a car at a show with a beautiful paint job, shiny wheels, nice interior.. then you look under the hood and the bay is a mess of wiring, oil, rust, and corroded parts. Sure it's great if it runs well.. but such a disappointment when it is quite simple to tidy up the engine bay and detail the "easy" bolt-on parts.
I have found a few "go-to" products in our selection of Engine Compartment Paints that when used together, can transform an engine bay.
Many drivetrains new from the factory, have a bare blasted aluminum intake manifold, transmission housing, alternator, and a slew of other parts. They look great.. but the unsealed, bare aluminum is very porous and grease, dirt, and grim can really get ingrained in the pores, and those parts quickly become quite ugly. With the help of our Chassis Kleen, some water (power washer works wonders!), and a coat of our new-improved Aluma Blast paint, many of these parts can be easily transformed into like-new appearance. We worked closely with our labs to once again, "one-up" ourselves and improve upon this already popular paint. We are proud to say that our Aluma Blast has just the right combination of metallics, the right hue of silver, and a formula that lays so smooth, people will think you part really has just been blasted. Check out the pics below where I used that exact same process to take this original transmission from an ugly, greasy, mess, to one that fools many that it is brand new!
The Aluma Blast works great on most anything, you can vary the amount of "flake" in the final finish by the distance you keep the nozzle from the part, and how heavy you lay the paint on. I like to do light dust coats while holding the can about twice as far from the part as you normally would with other aerosols. It gives that high "flake" or shimmer that you see in a freshly blasted part right out of the cabinet. Make sure you paint the parts away from anything you don't want a dusting of Aluma Blast on, the metallics really like to travel in the air and WILL land on anything you don't want to be silver (ask me how I know...).
In addition to manifolds and transmissions, It is nice to use the Aluma Blast and our other detail paints to break up too much of one color in the engine bay. You'd be surprised how much of a difference it makes to spray small things like the engine mount brackets, or shift linkage. It really keeps your engine from looking like you just dusted the entire bay with one can of spray paint. Below you can see a few more pictures where I recently used a combination of Aluma Blast, Extreme High Gloss Chassis Black and Silver Cad. I even use Aluma Blast on cylinder heads to keep the "New OE" theme going in the bay. Since Aluma Blast is good for up to 250 degrees Fahrenheit, it can be used on many engine parts that normal paint may flake or discolor if applied in the same spot.
My last little tip for any of these Engine Compartment Paints is that you can use our Diamond Satin Clear to protect the detail paints from greasy fingerprint stains or if you have any accidental leaks. I've found that you can spray some detailer on the dirty part and rub the fingerprints, oil, etc off with no ill effects or staining. Just add multiple coats of diamond clear until you get the desired gloss over the surface!
So start cleaning those drivetrains and engine bays, tidying up your wiring, and getting the engine compartment as clean as the rest of your ride! Just be careful it's surely a sickness and can make you border on OCD when you may find yourself detailing every little bit you can unbolt!
We are always happy to see what our customers are working on, and most times they are happy to share. The other day I was forwarded the story on this little gem in my email from our customer service department. Looks like Jim is doing a quality job on this 1970 Dodge A-100 van! Below is a little history directly from Jim about his pride and joy.
It is a 1970 Dodge A-100 van. Not your typical restoration, but I like different. I’ve owned the van since 1970 and use it for hauling stuff for my woodworking and restoration projects. I am a “gearhead” liking the mechanical part of the project. I’ve built a 408 smallblock to replace the original “tired 318”. It is a mild regular gas built for torque. It dynoed at 363 HP and 442 ft lbs torque with an average torque of 416 ft lbs between 2500 to 5500). I beefed up the original 727 auto with current diesel planetaries and hemi clutches. The body was in rough shape with lots of rust to kill and battle scars to patch up. All running gear was removed and rebuilt and undercoated and painted bottom and inside out.
All work is being done by myself including rust proofing internal areas of frame and panels, but body work and painting was done by a painter. I really like internal Eastwood internal frame coating, Rust Encapsalator, Ceramic frame coating-satin, and extreme chassis black. I am adding Air Conditioning and plan to install the Motor this spring. I will send pictures as work progresses.
Looks like with the help of Eastwood products, this is going to be a killer van! Keep up the great work Jim!