Tag Archives: dodge
For many antique automotive enthusiasts Das Awkscht Fescht has become a yearly tradition. Each year some pretty rare and unique cars come out of the woodwork for this event. The idea of the show is pretty simple, if it's an old car and relatively stock, it's welcomed into the show. This gives a nice mixed bag of cars and trucks that will satisfy everyone. The show also differs each year by the featured car manufacturer that they put in the spotlight. This brings out some rare and early cars of those makes, but it trickles down through the field and you often see other relevant cars throughout the show.
For the 51st year the show celebrated the heritage of the Dodge Brothers. Dodge Brothers owners were given a prime spot on the field, a tented area to put their favorite examples, and space for the Dodge Brothers Club to set up shop. I stopped by Friday to check out what had been dug out of the garages of collectors for this event. Under the tent I found a couple beautifully restored cars and two World War I Dodge Brothers military trucks that were decked out in all of the period correct accessories that took you back in time.
Outside of the tent I found a handful of additional Dodge Brothers cars in varying states from original barn-fresh condition to fully restored cars. It was really interesting to see some of the cool details these vehicles had new from the factory like tailpipe tips and taillight lenses with Dodge Brothers logos! The large original dealership advertisement signs were a nice touch as well in front of some of the cars, I wish I had a time machine to go back and purchase a few of these at those prices!
Throughout the field the MoPars were out in force with representation from every later brand related to the Dodge Brothers. I especially liked the two original 1960 Desoto Adventurers together in the field. These cars were true survivors that were in amazing shape for their age. I'm a sucker for over the top styling of the late 50's-early 60's and these had my attention for quite a while.
The field was also dotted with MoPar muscle in just about every color scheme available. The barracudas, chargers, and challengers were out in force dominating the later Mopar section of the show. I'm not much of a muscle car guy myself, but there's something about the lines of the body and the side graphics on a 60's MoPar muscle car that gets my heart pumping. You really missed out if you couldn't attend!
Even though the weather forecast was dismal for the weekend, the show was well attended and the weather cooperated as much as it could considering! I can't wait until next year!
In the last update I was working on cutting out metal to make the firewall and mocking up my new brake pedal setup from Speedway. Since then I've been pretty busy making something from nothing. I had to initially tackle how I was going to mount the brake booster and pedal assembly under the cab. The first problem was that where the pedal bracket needed to live the S10 chassis started to pinch in and put the pedal on a weird angle. This kit was made for an earlier frame that's mostly straight/flat and like anything with a custom build, I had to get creative.
I first used some jack stands to hold the brake assembly in place and eyeball up the position it needed to be in. I then traced out the area that the mounting pad for the pedal bracket needed to sit. I decided I could make a "cheese wedge" shaped mounting box that I could sink into the frame rail so that the pedal bracket would sit straight and everything would jive. I used 1/4" plate and copied the mounting holes to the base plate and welded the mounting bolts to the plate since they'd be hidden once the box was built. I used our Small Magnetic Welding Jig Set to square up the pieces and welded them together with the TIG200 DC Welder. The result was a strong mounting box I could sink into the frame and mount to the pedal box. I made my cuts in the chassis and mounted the box into the frame. Once I was sure it was square, I tack welded it into place with the MIG175 Welder.
Now that I had the shiny Right Stuff Brake Parts mounted in place I dropped the air suspension and checked my clearance when aired out. The booster sits a couple inches below the chassis, but even when the body is sitting on the ground the booster has 4 inches or more of clearance. I'd probably rip the front end off before the brake parts were touched. That would be a BAD section of road even here on the east coast!
My celebration of having a brake setup was cut short when I slide the Speedway brake pedal on and found that the brake pedal landed where my throttle pedal should be. I like to heel-toe my brake and throttle when driving.. but this was unacceptable! I decided to cut apart the brake pedal arm, shorten it, brace it and move the pedal over a few inches so that it sat where a brake pedal should. I also had to "clock" the mounting tab for the linkage under the pedal so that the pedal sits up high enough that it won't contact the chassis when I am pushing the pedal. I again used 1/4" steel plate and the TIG200 DC to box and brace the pedal to handle the force of pressing the brake pedal. Don't mind the rough floor in the photos, we just welded that in temporarily to keep the cab from flopping around while we worked on the roof chop and the firewall.
With the brake parts mounted in place I could finally turn my attention back to the firewall and engine/transmission tunnel. I started by making the back side of the firewall setback. I used one of our Adjustable Profile Gauges to transfer the radius of the top of the TCI Auto Transmission to the panel. After tracing out my pattern I cut the rough shape out of 16 gauge steel with our Electric Metal Shears. Now the electric shears work really great for cutting laser straight lines and gentle curves, but when you need to make a tighter radius cut those shears are out of their element. I decided to mount up one of our Throatless Shears to make the cuts I needed. The nice thing about the "throatless" shear is that you can go as slow or fast as you want so that you can make some really clean, accurate cuts. I cut out the top curves to match the top panel I made on the english wheel, then cut the transmission tunnel radius and I had my second panel of the firewall made.
Now with the back panel of the firewall channel made, I decided that I wanted to ditch the panel I made on the english wheel and form the panel out of one piece. I decided to use 18 gauge steel and form the piece using our Shrinker Stretcher Kit to make the panel match the radius of the main portion of the firewall we had made already. I cut a piece of 18 gauge a little longer than I needed and broke a 1/2" bend on each side of the panel. These edges will allow me to work them with the stretcher to get the radius I need on the panel. This panel was a little more difficult to make as I had to evenly stretch each side little by little as I went to get the shape the same on the entire panel. I actually went a little far when initially stretching the shape I needed and I had to work backwards with the shrinker in a few spots to get the panel back into shape to match the panel. That's the nice thing with metal is that you can always undo what you've done if you stretched or bent the metal a little too much. Once I got the shape close, I used the hammer and dolly to match the rolled edge we made earlier match with this new panel. Then I used Cleco Clamps to hold the pieces together.
Now that I have the pieces in place I can start to see everything taking shape. I need to tackle making the wheel tubs for the front wheels and the transmission tunnel next. I'm hoping I'll be able to start melting all of this metal together with an Eastwood Welder shortly! Thanks for watching!