Tag Archives: eastwood mig welder

  • Create Factory-Like Spot Welds with Your MIG Welder

    Spot Welds with a MIG Welder?  Factory Quality and Super Easy!


    If you're going for that factory original look but need to replace panels with stamped new ones you'll need to recreate the spot welds.  Simple enough if you have a resistance spot welder but most guys don't have one in their home shop and they can get pricey for an individual user.

    Now there is an easier way to recreate those spot welds using your MIG welder and the help of the Eastwood MIG Spot Weld Kit.  This, easy to use and affordable, kit is a perfect alternate to an actual spot welder, with the added bonus of only needing access to one side of the panel.  A convential spot welder requires contact to both sides of the panels.   This kit is compatible with all MIG welders that use a Tweco style torch, not just Eastwood Welders.


    This kit includes a specially designed torch nozzle, a pair of locking clamps, and two drill bits.  This is all you will need to recreate a factory like finish to your project.



    To set your MIG welder up with the kit all you have to do is unscrew the nozzle and screw on the spot weld nozzle, its that simple.


    Photo Sep 02, 2 47 02 PM

    Start by lining up the two panels to be welded and make a mark where you want them to sit as well as where you want the weld to be.  For large sections use a straight edge or a ruler and mark off all the weld locations with equal distance.  Once you make the first weld there is no going back to mark and re-measure.  It is very difficult to drill holes through only the top panel. After the panels are marked, separate them and drill holes only in the top panel.  Only after all the holes have been drilled can you clamp them back together.

    Extra Tip: To make sure your spot welds are perfect every time, get two pieces of scrap metal that are the same thickness as your project.  Drill holes in one piece and practice a few welds.  This will help you dial in your welder to the perfect settings.  This will also give you a few extra attempts to get the welds to sit flat on the panel.  You wouldn't want to go back and grind out an ugly weld on your project.



    With the two panels clamped where you want them take the nozzle of the welder and set it against the top panel between the openings in the clamp.  When you begin to weld make sure the first point of contact is with the bottom panel. If at first the the weld arcs to the outside of the drilled hole it may block off the opening and never make contact with the lower panel.  If this happens you will need to grind the area down and drill a new hole and try again.


    Photo Aug 26, 5 58 49 PM (1)

    Start the weld and hold for about 2 seconds, any longer and a puddle will build and the weld will not end up flat on the panel.  You want to have amperage of your welder set about 25% higher than you normally would for the thickness of metal you are welding.  This allows the weld to penetrate into the second panel ensuring a strong weld.



    Here is the finished product, aside from a little slag that can easily be sanded off, the weld sits flush with the top panel.  Shown below; I made sure to check the underside of the panel to make sure there is a discolored ring directly below the weld this verifies that a good strong weld was made.



    Using the Eastwood MIG Spot Weld Kit is the best way to achieve factory looking spot welds at home using only your MIG welder.  This kit will save you time and money allowing you to get that project done and on the road.


    Check out the Eastwood Blog and Tech Archive for more How-To's, Tips and Tricks to help you with all your automotive projects.  If you have a recommendation for future article or have a project you want explained don't hesitate to leave a comment.


    - James R. / EW

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  • Project Resolution - The Final Chapter?

    Eight months ago, we set out to transform this tired 1989 Fox Body Mustang into a cool cruise night ride, while working with a $7,000 budget. The ultimate goal was to show what a typical "car guy" (or "car girl") can accomplish at home. As you can see, the transformation is incredible.  Click Here To Read Full Post...
  • Project Resolution- Paint Stripping and Final Teardown

    We've been working on Project Resolution now for a few months and we're finally at a point where we are ready to start going uphill making the car nice again. With the front end removed I was able to remove the inner fender "skirt" and assess the damage that was caused during the accident. So far it looks like the damage was just sheet metal related and the chassis itself is still intact and not tweaked from the accident. We now need to clamp all of the new body panels in place with clecos and test fit the hood and fenders to make sure that our gaps all line up correctly before we begin welding those pieces back in place. I know we will need to do a little bit of hammer and dolly work on the remaining sheet metal around the replacement panels, but it should all be straight forward.

    While I was working on the front end removal the rest of our team has been working diligently removing all of the old red paint and uncovering the filler and previous owner repairs (yikes!). The roof is definitely much worse than we thought. It looks like someone used a "stone" style grinding disc or a cut off wheel to remove the old paint and there is a lot of deep gouges in the metal and some more hidden dents. We will have to take some serious time shaping the roof back to an acceptable point before we can make it shiny again.

    Speaking of damage we've uncovered, the rear hatch had some minor paint pitting around the lower edges, but we wanted to investigate them further. We found some terminal rust in the hatch and that we needed to cut out of the lower edge. Nick has removed the worst rust and is currently making up patch panels to weld back in place with the MIG 135. We hope to have that minor body rust tackled quickly and continue getting the body ready for a skim coat of filler, primer, and finally a new coat of paint! We're still on the fence what color we want to paint the car, so if you have any suggestions feel free to drop us a comment with your opinion!

    We plan to get all of the new body panels welded in place, the major body damage repaired, and all the rust repair done by the next update. July 13th for the Eastwood Summer Classic is getting closer everyday and we need to kick this project into high gear! Stay tuned!


    Related Eastwood Products:

    • Pinch Weld Clamps

      Hold pieces tightly together for pinch welds, flange welds, and more

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  • Project Resolution Phase 3 Teardown

    Since our last post we've been busy working on disassembling the car down to just a rolling shell. This meant we had to removed the entire drivetrain and start deciding if we were going to keep the original or get a replacement engine. The engine and transmission came out pretty easy when using the Folding Engine Hoist. We then separated the engine and transmission and put the engine on a Ford Small Block Rolling Engine Stand so we could easily move it around the shop.

    Meanwhile, some of the other members of the team worked on sanding the fenders and doors down to bare metal using the Eastwood Stripping Discs and then sprayed them with Eastwood Fast Etch to keep them from flash rusting while they wait their turn for bodywork and shiny paint.

    After looking over the engine we decided that this engine had been neglected for quite sometime and even the original waterpump was still on the engine! When Tim went to remove the bolts out of the waterpump just about every single one broke off. This is going to cause a lot more work as we now have to extract each broken bolt. This task will include removing the harmonic balancer on the crank and the timing chain cover to get to the bolts that broke. Let's hope this doesn't require some serious surgery!

    Once we were tired of fighting with broken bolts we moved on to removing the front radiator support on the car. This is NOT an easy job even on the best day. First of all you have to drill out numerous spot welds and the number of spot welds on each side of the radiator support are not equal. It seems like the spot welder in the factory just did however many felt right that day.. or two guys were spot welding on each side and one did way more than the other. The other problem we had was that the car has been hit in the front and some of the metal was bent and damaged. We took turns drilling spot welds with the Eastwood Spot Weld Cutters and slowly we were able to peel the old radiator support off of the front of the car. We'll have to do some hammer and dolly work to the remaining parts on the front end, but so far the CJ Pony replacement radiator panel seems like it will fit pretty well.

    Next up we will have to remove the damaged inner fender skirt panel and mock it all up to make sure the front sheet metal will sit correctly when we're done. Soon we'll be firing up the MIG 175 and the TIG 200 to weld these panels in place. Stay tuned, we're just getting warmed up!

    Related Eastwood Products:

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