Tag Archives: exhaust

  • How-To Repair a Damaged or Rusted Exhaust System

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    Unless your car has a factory stainless steel exhaust tubing it is only a matter of time before the elements compromise the integrity and functionality of one or many parts of the whole system.  Nothing is worse than the constant ticking sound that is the most apparent symptom of a damaged or broken exhaust system.  From the factory many cars are equipped with what is called aluminized steel exhaust tube, this type of tubing is much better than mild steel tubing because the infused aluminum helps resist corrosion and rust from forming.  The tubes themselves do an “ok” job of resisting rust but more often than not the welds joining the aluminized pipes to mufflers, resonators, flanges, etc. are done with mild steel welding wire and are not treated to resist corrosion.  The exposed steel welds become much more susceptible to rusting once they come in contact with water, salt, mud, or anything else you may drive your car through.  These welds can hold for years but eventually, like all steel does, it will rust out.

    You may also encounter exhaust issues when buying a used car.  It is tough to know everything that has been done to a car by the previous owner/ owners.  I encountered this issue when this car was purchased claiming to be “stock”.  The seller was not lying because it did have the factory exhaust but what made itself very apparent is that the factory installed muffler spent some of its life off of the car.  The car slowly became louder and louder until eventually it sounded as if there was no muffler on the car at all.  At some point one of the previous owners must have installed an aftermarket exhaust system in place of the stock unit and when it was time to sell the car a quick repair job was done to re-attach the factory muffler.  The fix was done very poorly and slowly but surely it rotted away, leaving the muffler suspended by the hangers, completely disconnected from the rest of the exhaust system.

    In this article I will show you step by step how you can repair a damaged or rusted out exhaust system so it will be able to withstand the elements and be able to drive without the worry that sooner or later you will need to fix your exhaust system.

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    As you can see here this exhaust system was not mended once but twice, both times improperly.  Once the weld from the original patch job broke a band style clamp was put over the pipe to reconnect the pieces but neither repair was a success.  Fixing your exhaust system like this may work temporarily, but in the long run it will always come back to bite you.  When working on cars its always best to take your time while doing repairs because when a repair is done correctly it will never appear again allowing you to be worry free when driving your car.

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    To tackle this exhaust repair I first had to get the rear portion of the exhaust system out from under the car.  This was done be removing the factory band style clamp which is in front of the resonator and also by two hook style hangers which were holding up the muffler and exhaust tip.

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    With the pieces on the table I was able to get a much better look at the condition of the pipes as well as figure out the best way to fix the problem.  As you can see here the rust is very bad and in order to properly fix it the entire section must be cut out an a new piece of pipe will need to be welded in.

    measurement 1

    Before I started cutting away the rusted pieces I clamped the resonator down to my workbench and held the broken pieces together in the correct orientation.  I then used a metallic permanent marker and straight edge to draw lines the length of the area that needs to be replaced.  Not shown in this shot, I also drew lines on either end intersecting the first lines; I then measured the distance between each of crosses and wrote them down for use later.  This is very important because without these marks as a guide it is nearly impossible to make the repair and maintain the correct angles so the hangers will line up and the exhaust tip will sit square and even in the bumper cutout.  (Make sure the alignment marks are far enough away from the repair area so that while cutting out the rusted pieces you won’t damage or destroy the marker lines)

    measurement 2

    After I have all my measurements down I began to cut off the old repair by using a cut off wheel on an electric angle grinder to cut off the rusted patch piece then a grinding wheel to smooth out any rust or metal that is still remaining.

    measurement 3

    With all of the old repairs removed I then cut a new piece of exhaust tubing that fills the gap between the old pieces and also allows the two pipes to slip inside.  (In this case the outside diameter of the original piping was 2 ¼” and the new piece had an inside diameter of 2 ½”) this creates a small gap that can easily be filled with a MIG Welder.

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    Using my Eastwood MIG 175 I tacked the new piece to one of the two sides and using the alignment marks and measurements I had written down earlier I was able to fully weld both sides of the joint without worrying that the now solid pipe was in the wrong orientation.

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    After both joints were fully welded I went back to see if there were any pin holes in the welds.  Next I took a wire brush and cleaned off the welds and surrounding metal to be painted.  In order to properly paint any parts of an exhaust system you must use paint that is rated to a very high temperature, this rules out your standard off the shelf spray paint.  For this job I used Eastwood’s High Temp Factory Engine Coating which is rated to resist heat up to 1400 degrees

    mag1

    Now after the exhaust is remounted under the car the exhaust tips sit evenly inside the bumper cutout without having to make any adjustments.  This is possible because the measuring and alignment that was done earlier ensured that once the new piece of pipe was welded in the whole exhaust system would maintain its original orientation and once done appear as if it was never damaged in the first place.

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  • GM announces 2014 Corvette Stingray- Better than the original?

    Automotive blogs have been buzzing this weekend after GM debuted the new 2014 Corvette Stingray at the Detroit Auto Show. This car has all the ingredients that Corvette fans have come to expect; great looks, effective aerodynamics, amazing handling, and a big engine. Designers have really outdone themselves this time with an edgy look that has hints of Italian sports car styling to it.

    2014 Corvette Stingray

    2014 Corvette Stingray

    This new model dons the iconic "Stingray" title that was first introduced in 1963. The original Stingrays have now become one of the most sought after Corvettes in the collector car and restoration world. We're a bit biased, but when we heard the Stingray name was brought back we were a bit skeptical. How much could a modern sports car have in common with the original from the 60's? After seeing the shot of the back end of the car, my tune was changed a little. It doesn't have the iconic split back window that makes them so sought after, but it does have a similar look if you squint your eyes just right. We can definitely see that GM designers had some old photos of a split window Stingray in front of them when doing their initial sketches, but it's hard to modernize an iconic classic.

    1963 Corvette Stingray

    The base model engine in the new C7 Corvettes boast the largest to ever come standard in a Corvette; a 6.2L Small Block Chevy V8 producing 450 Horsepower and 450 Torque. Corvette fans can always count on a big engine and lots of power..well sometimes. What we mean is, GM has now made cylinder deactivation standard on ALL Corvette models (including the manual transmission!). Now when you're cruising at low engine loads it will drop out 4 of the 8 cylinders. This is great for fuel economy (26-MPG highway), but bad for anyone that wants the growl of a V8 at all times. GM has even come up with a multi-valve exhaust system to tame the noise even further during four cylinder cruising. We know that MPG rules the new car market, but we didn't think it would start hitting the sports car world! I can't wait for the automotive tuning world to get ahold of the new Stingray and give owners the option to leave the exhaust open at all times and run with full power when they want!

    2014 Corvette Exhaust

    Did you miss the reveal and want to see what all the hype is about? Check out the virtual debut on the Chevrolet website here: http://www.chevrolet.com/new-2014-corvette/

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  • Street Rodder Road Tour 1940 Ford Nearing Completion- reassembling a 1940 Ford

    The last time we checked in with Street Rodder and Hollywood Hot Rods the paint on the body was still wet. Since then they've been busy getting the car ready for the first leg of the Street Rodder Road Tour and it's unveiling this weekend. We got these sneak peeks from the crew over at Street Rodder Magazine just the other day.

    After rolling the car back to Hollywood Hot Rods from the paint shop, Troy and crew were ready to start buckling down and assemble the Ford. This is the fun part most times, but it is a tedious process installing all of those freshly painted, chromed, and powder coated parts!

    With the exterior starting to look pretty complete, they moved on to the interior. The team decided to go for a classy, but custom retrim in the 40 Ford. They had some help from a local interior shop to help them meet the deadlines, but it is coming together great. We are loving the color-matched piping details, it really pulls it all together!

    With the Ford looking more like a complete car Troy and his crew moved on to mounting up the drivetrain and making the new Ford Racing Coyote V-8 crate engine live. They opted to go with electronic fuel injection to get the most power out of the engine AND the best fuel mileage possible (for a flowed 5L 302 Mustang Boss Engine that is!). Instead of screwdrivers, carb synchs, and their ears, these guys are using a computer to tune the engine so this car will run as well as the latest pony car from the Ford stable.

    With things really coming down to the line for the Road Tour and the debut this weekend the team at Hollywood Hotrods is really buckling down. Stay tuned for the finished pictures of this beautiful 40 Ford and make sure you come out to the kickoff of the east coast leg of the tour on July 14th at the Eastwood Summer Classic! Thanks for watching and we'll see you in July!

    -Matt/EW

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