Tag Archives: Hammer and Dolly

  • Eastwood Professional Body Hammer Comparison

    Hammers

    A constant question we receive when we launch new products is "How are you able to keep your products so affordable, while still retaining good quality?". A big part of the answer lies in our ability to design, test, and perfect Eastwood products here in-house. When we set to design a new hammer and dolly set, we did similar to what we did when designing our MIG, TIG, and Plasma. We took the key features and benefits of the "Professional Industry Standard" Martin Hammer and Dolly Set and integrated those into an Eastwood product that meets the same levels of performance. We did all of this while retaining a price tag that your Beginner OR Serious DIY guy could afford. It took quite some time working on this set, but we were able to come up with a kit that is precision balanced, and made out of the finest 4140 chromoly. This set will be something you can pass down to your kids! We wanted to show off the similarities and the quality of the Eastwood Professional 7-Piece Hammer and Dolly Set vs. the Martin kit mentioned earlier. Try it for 30 days, and if you hate the Eastwood kit or think the quality wasn't what we strive for; return it, and we will refund you for the product!

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  • New Professional Hammer and Dolly Set. Fresh off the truck!

    We just got our shipment of our new Eastwood Professional Hammer and Dolly Sets in from our factory. I managed to grab one right off the truck and snap some pics. These are top notch quality. I have been using and abusing our pre-production test set of these, and they have been holding up quite well. Luckily I have some rough projects to put the kit through the paces with!

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  • Even the best need guidance!

    Recently we added another "arsenal" to our auto body product line. Sometimes after hours, days, and even months of sanding filler and primer, you start to see "things". It makes you feel as if you are a shipwrecked sailor. You know the feeling, you're fine-tuning a dent that you had hit with the stud welder, laid some thin layers of filler over, and sanded diligently in between. All while running your hand along the panel to feel for low spots... before your eyes new low spots seem to "appear" and the original dent you started with seems to get even bigger!

    I've found that using a small bit of guide coat over a area you are filling or priming is very helpful in eliminating the doubts of a phantom low spot. Especially one that might show itself only after the car is painted and shiny. This is especially true for someone like myself that is a "novice" in the auto body field.

    Below I took some pictures of one of the bedsides on my 1981 VW Rabbit Pickup project. This truck originally had dealer installed bed rails that were used and abused to the max! So much so, that they had even pulled some of the threaded inserts out of the bed sides. Once I removed the bed rails, the bedsides looked similar to the water in your swimming pool after the kids have been playing in it for hours! Because I am going with a "clean" look for the truck, I will not be running bed rails in the future. This means I won't be able to hide the "waves" and oblong holes with the bed rail feet. So I began by using our hammer and dolly set to smooth out the major dents and high spots around the mounting holes. I then welded up the old mounting holes. I was then left with some smaller "waves" and low spots (and a couple pin holes in the welds), This is where the "sanding, filling, sanding more, filing more, sanding again" process occurred.

    Above you can see my first layer of Rage Extreme filler has been laid down. This Evercoat product is very user friendly. It is the first "pinhole free" body filler of it's kind according to them. I was a little skeptical, but after using it numerous spots on the body of this "field find", I had quickly forgotten about my glazing putty. I then blocked the area to 320 and I still felt like there was a small low spot right near the back end of the bedside. I sprayed the black guide coat (it also comes in TAN for those of you using a dark colored filler, or black primer) over the entire top of the bedside. I've found doing a extremely light coat over the area, holding the can about 12" away works best. You can see in the last picture it looks like a light bit of dust over the top of the beside.

    You can see in the first picture the sanding process halfway through. As you sand lightly, the majority of the guide coat sands off quite quickly. You will notice that low spots will leave behind the guide coat and pretty much outline the remaining low spot. In the second picture you can see as I had suspected, a noteworthy low spot. It is right where one of the mangled mounting holes for the bed rails was. I even took a picture of this area before I started the guide coat process (last picture in the series). Following this, I reapplied another concentrated coat of filler over the dent, block sanded to 320 again, and repeated the guide coat process. This eliminated the worries I had of having a the tops of the bedsides all wavy. I will surely be using the guide coat quite a bit when I put the body in primer next week!

    You can find the Rage Extreme filler and our new guide coats at the links below. Thanks for reading!
    Eastwood Guide Coat Black
    Eastwood Guide Coat Tan
    Evercoat Rage Xtreme Filler

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