Tag Archives: Rust Encapsulator

  • Brian H., Director of Marketing- What Makes Us Tick!

    A finely tuned machine- Eastwood Employees makes us tick

    We want to share the great Eastwood staff with you, our customers! We have asked them to fill out the first five questions, and then pick 5 random questions from a “Wildcard” section of questions. We allowed them to answer these however they'd like. You'd be surprised at what some of us have to say!

    1. Name and Title at Eastwood? 
Brian H., Director of Marketing

    2. What the heck do you do all day? Figure out how to get Eastwood’s unique products and content in front of as many qualified customers as possible.

    3. Did you come from an automotive background before Eastwood? What did you do before Eastwood? I’ve been fascinated with cars forever, especially older ones pre 1960, but have never had the opportunity to do a ton of work on them. Really love learning more and experimenting in small ways with our products. Before Eastwood I worked in various direct-to-consumer and retail marketing roles in a handful of industries.

    4. When not talking cars, tools, and restorations all day, what are a few of your hobbies? Spending as much time with my kids as possible, hiking and anything outside.

    5. What's your favorite Eastwood product? Why? Rust Encapsulator, because of its countless number of uses both in automotive applications and others. I use it around my house for all kinds of stuff, so the versatility is great.

    6.What's your favorite thing about working for Eastwood? Seeing the cool car pics customers send us. Also, the opportunity to see the impact our customers’ projects can have on them and their families. The husband/wife and father/son stories Eastwood is lucky enough to be associated with are truly unbelievable.

    7. What was your first car?
    1987 Volkswagen Fox. I don’t have an actual picture, but it looked something like below…not in quite as good of shape.

    VW Fox

    8. What's the first tool you reach for in the garage (what do you use most often?)
 Reciprocating saw – great multipurpose tool I use for almost anything.

    9. Name an automotive trend that you are happy died or wish would go away? While I appreciate them, I’ve never been a big fan of the El Camino.

    10. Do you have any projects going right now? What are you building, restoring, or a job you are tackling next? I absolutely need to get my peddle car done this spring. After that, on to my Agway lawn tractor. Plan to do a lot of learning and experimenting on this over the summer. Ultimately want to get it running, keep it running, and then paint it Candy Apple Red with an Eastwood Evolution Gun.

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  • How to Replace A Rusty Lower Door Skin

    When looking over Project Pile House we started seeing a lot of spots where we needed to repair rusted panels on the body. When sizing it all up, we found that many of them could be replaced with the combination of some basic hand tools and our new Patch Panel Install Kit. We decided to show you an outline of how to tackle this job on an extremely rusty door. Enjoy the video, and let us know if you have any ideas for future technical how-to videos!

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  • The cure for rusty-tank syndrome

    It's one thing to have to fight rust that is easily accessible, like on floor pans or quarter panels, where it isn't too hard to get to the problem area.  Nothing is worse than restoring a vehicle, only to find that the fuel tank you have in it is full of loose rust and coated in varnish. I recently fell victim to this exact problem with my VW pickup truck project. I had gone through quite an extensive job in getting this truck to the stage where it was almost drivable, only to be stopped dead in my tracks. If you are unfortunate (or masochistic) enough to have to go through this process, I decided to do a fairly universal "how-to" pictorial of how to go through this process.

    Now, faithful Eastwood readers, I feel that we are good enough friends that I can tell you "how it is" without sugar coating it. This job is going to be messy, dirty, and downright unpleasant. You have to figure, if the gas tank on the inside is rusty enough to cause an issue, the exterior of the tank and it's mounting points have to be that much worse. I found that that was exactly the case on my truck. It seemed like everywhere I looked, under the bed of the truck had surface rust, the outside of the tank being the worst of it for sure. As I dug into it, I found I really had to work to coax the nuts holding the gas tank straps to come off. Luckily I had grabbed a can of CRC Freeze-Off before starting on this. We just started carrying this product, and I will admit, I was a bit skeptical to say the least. I mean, come on, it "freezes" the rust off? But J.R. from our R&D fame assured me that it was the cat's meow as far as rust fighting penetrates go. So I doused the threads on the stud, and the nut itself, a few times with the freeze-off, and let it sit. After working the nut back and forth, a little tapping with a small hammer, and some baby-talk to it, I was able to get both nuts to thread off with out breaking a stud or having to cut the nut off. I would say that the freeze-off gets my approval!

    After assuring that I didn't have to cut off any nuts or mounting studs, I removed the fuel pump lines, the fuel filler hose to the tank, and any associated breather hoses. I then dropped the fuel tank down out of the truck. I've found that your average floor jack is perfect for this job. Once the tank was out, I set it on a fender stand to work on it (not before cleaning the acorns off the top of the tank!). I started by draining the fuel out completely. You can see from the picture of the pre-pump filter, and also of what was left in the drain pan, just how bad the rust and dirt inside the tank was. This was the 4th fuel filter in a matter of a week. Each time I would attempt to drive the truck and hit a bump, the filter would get clogged with more rust. Also note the pictures of the inside of the tank that I shot, if you look closely you can see the piles of rust still in the tank, along with all of that varnish! I tried to knock all the major rust off of the walls of the inside of the tank by dropping some old chain into the tank and shaking it around for a few minutes (I told you this wasn't going to be fun!). Follow all of this up by spraying the pressure washer inside of the tank, trying to flush all of that rust you knocked loose out of the tank.

    After getting the tank out and drained, I realized that I wasn't going to be able to just use our tank sealer kit and restore the inside of the tank, I was going to have to do something about how the outside looked. I decided to choose our Tank Tone Kit. This kit is made to help treat and convert surface rust on the outside of the tank and then you apply a silver coating that is fuel resistant and leaves the tank looking like the day the vehicle left the showroom. I needed to first, assess the corrosion and make sure that I wasn't attempting to restore a tank that possibly would rot out and leak after a year or two. I hit the tank with a wire brush and a metal scraper to get all of the heavy stuff off first. After checking the tank for any thin spots, I started applying the rust converter that is included in the kit. Luckily I have a small 10 gallon tank in that truck, so only one tank tone kit was necessary. I would suggest at least two kits for an average full size car or truck. Because of how extensive the rust was on the outside of the tank, I let the rust converter sit on the tank for a full 24 hours.

    I took pictures below showing how the converter progressed over this time. The last pictures you can really see how the surface has changed color of the rust all over!

    Here is the rust converter working after only a few hours on the rusty tank.

    Now here is after 24 hours with the Rust Converter working on the tank. Notice how much more of the rust has now been turned to a blackish purple color. The outside of the tank is now ready to be primed and top coated!

    This is where the process of restoring an old gas tank really begins to make you rethink why you are doing this project yourself, but I can assure you... if you stick with me, the end result is surely worth it! I used one of our Tank Sealer Kits For Cars, again two or more kits may be needed for larger tanks. I plugged the openings in the tank using tin-foil and appropriate length screwdrivers. This kept the chemicals from getting all over the place. The first step is adding a bucket of our metal wash, which has been diluted with two gallons of hot water. You then shake, and turn the tank to get the metal wash to soak into all surfaces and etch the metal. This is a process that you will be very, very good at by the end.

    After draining and rinsing the tank out, you follow up with a small amount of muriatic acid diluted in a half gallon of hot water. This acid is NASTY stuff, the bottle was smoking when I opened it... that is always a sure sign that this is not a chemical that you want to get on your skin! Again, mix the acid with the water, dump it in the tank, slosh the tank, drain, rinse. You can see how brown and contaminated the liquid coming out of the tank was still at this second step.

    At this point I tried snapping a photo showing how the inside of the tank was beginning to be etched and brought back to clean metal. Pretty neat to see, but tough to photograph!

    In the next step, you dump an entire bottle of fast etch in the tank again, to clean and etch. Once you have drained that all out, you add one small can of Acetone to clean the surface, and help evaporate any other water in the tank. Each of these chemicals are the same as the others, dump in the funnel, slosh around in the tank, drain out.

    After I got the majority of the acetone out, I let the tank sit upside down for an hour to let the chemicals evaporate inside. I then used 1.5 bottles of the tank sealer and sloshed it around in the tank. This time I took much more care, making sure all of the surfaces inside were covered and the sealer wasn't puddling or filling the center baffle. I let the tank sit upside down to avoid this and it also allowed the top of the inside of the tank to get some coverage.

    The sealer fumes are very intense, I got too close and accidentally breathed in the chemicals when trying to shoot the photo of the inside of the tank, and it made me gasp and nearly faint. The lengths I go through to get everyone a thorough DIY article took their toll that night! Crazy stuff. Subsequently I got a headache later on in the evening. Moral of this story is, DO NOT under any circumstances, breathe in, or inhale the fumes coming out of the tank after the sealer has been applied!

    The instructions then called for you to put an air nozzle in the tank and run it at at a low PSI to help dry the sealer and stop it from puddling too much. Since I don't have an air compressor at my home garage just yet, I decided to rig up the exhaust on the shop vac to circulate air inside the tank. I left it on for about an hour, and it definitely seemed to do the trick.

    Once the tank sealer had dried and there were little to no fumes remaining, I applied the Tank Tone to the outside of the tank. This really made a world of difference. I still have trouble convincing friends this is the same tank!

    As they say in the repair manuals, "installation is the reverse of removal," so I lifted the restored tank back up into the truck. Luckily it all fit back into it's home pretty easily, and I was left to admire my handy work, and reflect on the restoration process . As many can relate, sitting back and admiring your handy work can be a catch 22... while it allows you to appreciate the end result of the hard work you put into restoring something, it also allows you to see the imperfections and faults in everything around it! I now noticed all of the suspension parts, and brackets under the truck that had minor surface rust on them. Not to mention the spots on the floor beds of the cab where I had applied our Brushable Seam Sealer and I felt like those spots needed some undercoating to give that OEM finish back to the floor boards, and match the fresh look of the gas tank.

    So that begun the process of again using Rust Converter to treat and convert all of the surface rust, as well as prep the surfaces for top coats. I sealed the treated areas with Rust Encapsulator, and followed up with a top coat of our Satin Extreme Chassis Black. I felt this gave the undercarriage parts a nice understated "OEM" finish, and also gave me the piece of mind that the rust wouldn't be coming back to haunt me years down the road!

    All in all, this was a very tedious, long process. But, I am happy to report that since restoring the tank, the truck is now running well on its new engine, and is very close to being road worthy! I can't wait to hear what the exhaust shop thinks of the undercarriage of the truck when they build my custom exhaust this week!!!

    Keep up the hard work, and as usual, any and all comments, questions, and advice are welcomed here if you leave a comment!!

    -Matt/EW

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  • Bit by Bit

    From time to time you may notice that we have an old Mustang that we use to test products on and also do photo shoots for ads with. We figured that there was no better way to test one of our new mig welders, than to do a common task many of you would be doing with your mig. This may look all too familiar to any vintage Mustang guy.. rear quarter panel and inner wheel arch replacement. Never a fun or quick job, but often times necessary, as they seem to always rot from the inside out. During this process, I decided to shoot some photos along the way, and document some of our products that made this job a bit easier.

    First task when doing this process was to expose any and all factory spot welds and brazes. We began by using a combination of different abrasive/sanding discs, including our 80 grit flap discs around the seams to quickly expose any weld points on the rear quarter.

    Once the spot welds were located, we grabbed the drill and a Spot Weld Drill Bit and went to town detaching all of those old spot welds. Once these were drilled out (this is possibly the least fun part of this job in my opinion), Mark made quick use of the Electric Metal Shears. After a few minutes with the shears, the panel was dangling from the last little bits of original rusty metal and a couple quick zips with the cut off wheel, and the cancerous panel was off. You can see a interesting thing Ford did from the factory in the last picture below. They seem to have run the body wiring harness in the rear quarter panel on top of the inner wheel arch. Because of the rust forming between the arch and the quarter, the wiring began to be effected by the corrosion of the metal it was laying on. This surely would have caused a major issue, had it shorted out!

    Once the old panel was off, we were able to assess the extent of the rust and rot. Luckily, only the inner wheel well and the inner trunk corner were the major areas of concern and we had planned ahead and had them ordered up ahead of time! First thing was to clean up and straighten any of the seams where the old quarter panel had been attached. Inevitably when removing old body panels like this, some of the attachment points may get a little tweaked. Below you can see Mark is fixing this by using the Hammer and Dolly set. After some more cutting of the old inner wheel arch and the inner trunk corner, we were ready to begin cutting and mocking up the new replacement panels. Using a piece of painters tape, we were able to mask off a nice straight line on the new panel as well as the body of the car so we could cut the replacement panel at just the right spot. Again using the shears, Mark cut the new panel to match. After some minor tweaking, we were ready to call it a day and begin installation the next day.

    After a good nights rest (for some of us), everyone jumped right back into it. First thing to do was get the inner wheel arch welded in place. Regardless of how rusty the area was, Mark was able to dial in the 175 welder and get a nice weld on the arch. Since the area around the new inner arch was so "scale-y", we decided to brush on liberal amounts of Rust Converter. You can see in the one picture below a perfect example of converted surface rust. The Rust Converter turns almost a purple-like color once it has neutralized and converted the rust. Neat stuff to watch on such a large surface like this! After lining up the replacement quarter we used an item that is life-saver if doing a large panel like this by yourself or with limited help. These "Blind Grip Panel Holders" or Clecos go through the spot weld holes we drilled out and match up with the spot weld holes in the new panel. this perfectly aligns the panel and holds it to be spot welded around other portions of the panel. These were an eye opener to me, no more propping blocks of wood or using jacks and large clamps to hold a large piece in place when you can just install these panel holders quickly and the panel is aligned! These are definately on my list of new "must-have" tools. Finally Mark jumped around tack welding the panel to the car, being sure to go from end to end to avoid heating the panel up too much. Even though this is a test vehicle, we still have pipe dreams of some day fully restoring and painting the "Ol' Girl", and it would be a headache to try and smooth out warpage in that large of a body panel. Lastly we treated and spot primed the areas we welded and the car is now ready for our next job on it. Bit by bit this old car may just see the road again!

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  • It's starting to look a lot like spring!

    Here on the east coast, this is the time of the year when many of us begin to get a little "skip in our step". For most, this is due to the first glimpses of warm weather and the hope for all things great about spring and summer. For fellow car enthusiasts it is the thought of being able to finally dig your favorite "summer ride" out of storage and begin to enjoy it again.

    Personally, I don't have a million dollar restored classic (though I have grand dreams about owning a restored Porsche 356 in Ponyantha Red someday when I hit the lottery), but I still partake in this routine with some of my "Patina Queen" Volkswagens. My trusty summer car to cruise to the local GTG's and shows is a 1977 Scirocco. This car was rescued from the "ghetto" in Brooklyn,NY of all places. Even though it had relatively low miles when I found it (only 77k!), it had lived a hard life the past 5+ years. But regardless, I still get excited at the thought of being able to cruise around with the windows down in one of my "Summer Cars".  The 0nly thing I dread a little is all of the hand polishing of the chrome and polished bits I have on the 77. I know Autosol will be my best friend one Sunday afternoon very soon!

    Another thing I've found is that with the hint of warmer weather coming up, a lot of stalled projects get a much needed jump-start from this inspirational warm weather. I personally am very guilty of letting the cold, snowy weather get me down. Instead of tinkering with projects I tend to hide inside away from the cold. Now that it is starting to get a bit warm, I find myself exceedingly excited to start getting major progress done on one of my dozens of major projects. I seem to have a vehicle at close to every stage of the restoration process these days. First I have my convertible project that is in the major rust removal and panel replacement stage. If you find that we are out of Rust Converter, Rust Encapsulator and PRE next week you know who is to blame! Not to mention my 76 rabbit that is a shiny bare shell (I'll be firing up the Powder Coating Gun and oven real soon!); to my recent Rabbit Pickup acquisition that has yet to be started (already picked out our Euro Racing Green to repaint it with). I sure know a good chunk of my paychecks this spring are going right back into Eastwood for supplies! (the horrible downfall of working in the industry of something you love!)

    The last of my favorite early spring routines is to go on the hunt for "field/barn finds". Early spring and late fall are the best for this activity. You can even kill two birds with one stone (honey I'm just going to fill the car up with gas before the cruise this weekend, be back soon!") and drive your recently-uncovered summer ride on these exploratory trips. I find that if you go very early in spring you catch many more things you wouldn't notice or see many other times of the year. The foliage hasn't begun to grow back on the trees/plants and you can clearly spot those forgotten gems tucked away in back yards, fields, or woods with ease. The other nice thing is the age old routine of "spring cleaning", people tend to have their barns and garage doors open while cleaning and you might spot that classic tucked away in a barn underneath piles of "junk". I have spotted and pulled a handful of cars out of barns/yards just from this exact method (calling some of them "gems" is a far stretch I'm afraid though).

    So whatever your favorite spring routine is, make sure you get outside and enjoy the beautiful weather. I know after this long, hard winter we had here on the east coast, I'm not wasting a single sunny day!

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