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Tag Archives: tig 200

  • When do you save a panel or throw it away? Repairing a Rusty Trunk Lid

    When your fabrication and welding skills start to progress you'll get to a point where not much scares you as far as repair goes. Whether it's rust or just old body damage anything can be fixed with enough time and skills. Over the past few years I've started to get myself to that point where I often have to approach a rusty panel with the question "Is it worth my time to fix it?". The answer can differ for many reasons. Is the panel easily available aftermarket or good used? How expensive are the panels? How soon do I need it versus how long it takes to get a replacement part?
  • Fitting a bench Seat into a Channeled Hot Rod

    Channeling an early 30's car looks the cat's meow but it creates ALL sorts of problems with actually making the car drivable inside. Every step of this project I've had to take a step back and figure out how to fit everything into the car with the decreased room inside. Because the transmission and driveshaft tunnel protrude up above the floor now I couldn't just put the seat up on top of the tunnel or I'd have my head up out of the roof. I needed to get the driver and passengers butts as close to the floor as possible.
  • How to fabricate and install Heavy Duty Threaded Inserts

    Recently when channeling my Ford Model A I wanted to use Grade 8 fasteners for all of the body mounts instead of just tapping threads into the frame or inserting rivnuts that could fail over time. First of all the 1/4" wall of the tubing wasn't really thick enough to give sufficient threads to hold the weight and twist of the body from normal driving. We came up with a slick solution and figured we'd share.

    I started by threading a batch of Grade 8 nuts onto a carriage bolt and locking them all together.


    I then mounted the bolt into the lathe and cut off the hex portion of each nut leaving us with perfectly round grade 8 threaded inserts. The nuts were cut down just a hair bigger than 1/2" so they would be a press fit into a 1/2" drilled hole.






    I then counter sunk each hole and threaded a bolt into each insert so I could adjust them so they were straight in the holes. I used the TIG 200 to carefully lay a weld puddle on the edge of the threaded insert melting it to the frame. You must take your time here and be very precise because a rogue dab of filler rod could go over the edge of the threaded insert and make your life hell when it comes time to thread a bolt back into the insert!








    Hopefully you can use this method to put some clean, strong threaded inserts in your next project.


  • How to Make A Free Tuck Shrinking Fork

    You may not realize it, but many of our Eastwood tools are dreamt up and prototyped the same way you build things at home. We have a problem or see a need for a tool to help do a job right and we build something ourselves. I recently needed to shrink the edge of a panel that was on a vehicle and I couldn't get a shrinker stretcher on it to shrink. An alternative method is to "Tuck-Shrink" the area and use a hammer and dolly to shrink the metal into itself. I decided to make my own homemade tuck shrink tool from some old tools for free I had laying around and show you the process.
  • How to Channel A Ford Model A

    Back in the late 1940's-1960's it was pretty easy to distinguish if a hot rod in a magazine was built on the east coast or on the west. One of the big differences is how the profile and stance of the car differed. An "east coast hot rod" was easily identifiable by its low ride height and body channeled pretty hard over the chassis without chopping or lowering the roof. It seems as the years went on guys were channeling and lowering their cars more and more until there was almost no ground clearance and no headroom from the raised floor.

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