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Eastwood Tech Frequently Asked Questions

  1. What is the difference between Rust Encapsulator & Rust Converter?
  2. What is the difference between Rust Dissolver & Fast-Etch?
  3. Which product is better: Rust Encapsulator or POR-15?
  4. Can I use a brush to apply the Chassis Black in the Quart can?
  5. What is the difference between the #50095 & the #50096 Soda Blasters?
  6. Which Soda Blaster do I need for my project?
  7. How big of an air-compressor do I need to run a Soda Blaster?
  8. Tell me more about the Concours gun…
  9. How much of the Eastwood Single-Stage Urethane paint will I need?
  10. Do I need to reduce the Eastwood Single-Stage Urethane paints?
  11. What do I need to buff the "xxxxxx" on my car?
  12. Which buff motor should I buy?
  13. How do I get a 2nd coat of powder (or a coat of the clear powder) to stick to the first?
  14. Will either the Deep-Scratch Kit or Glass Polishing Kit remove the scratches in my windshield?
  15. Why is the glass still dull/hazy after using the Deep-Scratch Kit on my windshield?
  16. How do I adjust my oxy-acetylene welding system to use the lead-working tip?
  17. What is the difference between the LEAD-FREE solder & the traditional stuff?
  18. Can I use a metal type of filler instead of lead?
  19. Which body filler is best for my application?
  20. Why doesn’t the DeVilbiss supplied DeKups adapter #DPC-10 fit my DeVilbiss Starting Line Full-Size gun?

  1. Question: What is the difference between Rust Encapsulator & Rust Converter?
    Answer: Rust Converter is designed to chemically CONVERT the rust into an inert black polymeric coating that seals the rust from air & moisture prior to priming or painting. Rust Encapsulator is a coating that can be applied directly over existing rust & stops the rust by sealing out the air & moisture, essentially "suffocating" the rust. The Rust Encapsulator also acts as a primer for pretty much ANY coating you wish to apply over top, including body fillers.

    Which one should I use for my application?
    For HEAVY rust we recommend the Rust Converter first, followed by the Rust Encapsulator to seal & prime the surface. For light to medium rust the Rust Encapsulator will perform flawlessly when the guidelines for application are followed.

  2. Question: What is the difference between Rust Dissolver & Fast-Etch?
    Answer: The Rust Dissolver is a NON-acid based product designed more for the soaking of parts for an extended period of time, overnight in some applications. The Fast Etch is an acid based product designed for application ONTO a surface for a short period of time, typically 20-30 minutes.

    Which one should I use for my application?
    For small parts & items that can be removed from the vehicle as well as items that could be damaged by exposure to the acid in the Fast Etch, the Rust Dissolver would be the better choice. For larger surfaces such as doors, hoods, fenders, etc the Fast Etch would be the better option.
  3. Question: Which product is better: Rust Encapsulator or POR-15?
    Answer: Both products are high-quality products that will produce good results for the avg. user. However, based upon our experience, our customer feedback & independent magazine articles we feel that the Rust Encapsulator is a superior product for a variety of reasons such as: overall ease of use & user friendliness, compatibility w/ other products on the market, shelf-life, long term performance, etc. Click Here to read product comparison
  4. Question: Can I use a brush to apply the Chassis Black in the Quart can?
    Answer: Both the Chassis Black & EXTREME Chassis Black products are pre-thinned for spray-on application. However, they CAN be applied via brush but you may experience some appearance of brush-strokes after the product has cured.
  5. Question: What is the difference between the #50095 & the #50096 Soda Blasters?
    Answer: First & foremost, the #50095 is more of a DIY grade unit for occasional use whereas the #50096 is sturdier & could be considered closer to an industrial grade unit. The "095" has a shorter hose (8-foot) & a smaller selection of nozzle sizes available. The "096" has a longer hose (10-foot) with a larger selection of nozzle sizes. The "095" can only shoot media up to between 60-80 grit sizes due to the smaller size nozzles available, whereas the "096" can shoot much larger grit media when you upgrade to one of the larger size nozzles which we stock in our warehouse.

    Why is one so much more expensive than the other?
    The "096" is more expensive due to it being a better constructed more industrial/professional grade unit than the "095" blaster.
  6. Question: Which Soda Blaster do I need for my project?
    Answer: For a smaller project or occasional projects you should be fine w/ either the #50095 or #50096 unit. If you are going to be doing soda blasting on a more consistent basis or as a side business you may want to consider upgrading to the #11804 blaster.

    Which media should I use for my project?
    For paint removal on sheet metal go w/ the "XL" soda media #11807… for more delicate surfaces such as fiberglass & wood you would go w/ the "M" soda media #11806.

    How many bags will I need?
    The AVG car requires 8-10 bags…
  7. Question: How big of an air-compressor do I need to run a Soda Blaster?
    Answer: That will depend upon which unit you purchase & what nozzle size you are using while blasting. The #50095 & #50096 blaster will operate on as little as 7CFM but not as efficiently or effectively as some would like. Therefore, we recommend having a compressor that has an output of @ least 10-12CFM @ 80-90PSI to do the job right. The LARGER #11804 Soda Blaster requires a minimum of 18-20CFM @ 80-90PSI to perform to the user's expectations.
  8. Question: Tell me more about the Concours gun…
    Answer:
    Is it any good? YES… Better than a "beginner gun", the Eastwood Concours Gun performs very well in many situations & offers a wide range of usefulness thanks to the different tip sizes available. The fact that it can operate on as little as 4-5CFM makes it ideal for the home hobbyist who doesn't have a LARGE enough compressor to feed the avg. HVLP gun.


    Who makes it? The Concours is not an "off the shelf" gun. It was designed to our exacting specifications and produced exclusively for us by one of our international partners.

    Which one should I buy? That will depend on what paint(s) you will be spraying with it… The 1.2mm tip is ideal for water-based paints & some clears… The 1.4mm tip is for most Base/Clear applications… The 1.8mm Tip is for your heavier coatings like primers.
  9. Question: How much of the Eastwood Single-Stage Urethane paint will I need?
    Answer:
    Primer? Typically 1 GALLON sized kit of the epoxy primer is MORE than enough… A kit would be: 1-Gal of the primer + 1 GAL of the catalyst.

    Paint? Anything considered MID-SIZE car or larger would require 2 kits (kit contains 1-GAL of paint w/ 1 QT of activator).

    Clear? MOST vehicles require 1 GAL of clear + the 2 QTS of activator.
  10. Question: Do I need to reduce the Eastwood Single-Stage Urethane paints?
    Answer: Under normal circumstances the activator will do all the necessary thinning for the user, however sometimes depending on the paint gun being used & how it is set-up, the paint may require additional thinning…

    If so, what would I use?
    When this is the case, they would use the Eastwood Urethane Reducer #50104zp
  11. Question: What do I need to buff the "xxxxxx" on my car?
    Answer:
    Trim:
    There are too many variables to answer this question accurately & cover all the different needs of our customers. We recommend you contact a member of our Technical Assistance Dept so that they can work with you to come up with the best option(s) to fit your buffing needs.

    Wheels:
    Wheel Buffing Kit #13105 & a hand-held die grinder like our #46047. Click Here to read more about wheel buffing

    Etc.
    There are too many variables to answer this question accurately & cover all the different needs of our customers. We recommend you contact a member of our Technical Assistance Dept so that they can work with you to come up with the best option(s) to fit your buffing needs. Click Here for buff wheel and compound selection chart
  12. Question: Which buff motor should I buy?
    Answer: Again, this will depend on the needs & intended uses of the customer. We recommend the customer contact a member of our Technical Assistance Dept. so that they can work with you to come up with the best option(s) to fit your buffing needs.
  13. Question: How do I get a 2nd coat of powder (or a coat of the clear powder) to stick to the first?
    Answer: It can be tricky to apply a 2nd coat of powder or top-coat of clear with any powder coating system. Most important thing is to make sure you have a clean point of attachment for the clip prior to spraying. Sometimes it helps to "hot flock" the part w/ your 2nd coat/top-coat which can be done by re-hanging the part as soon as it comes out of the oven after curing the 1st coat, re-attach the clip & shoot the next coat IMMEDIATELY while the part is still HOT. Then put it back in the oven to cure the 2nd coat.
  14. Question: Will either the Deep-Scratch Kit or Glass Polishing Kit remove the scratches in my windshield?
    Answer: If the scratch CANNOT be caught or felt w/ your fingernail then the Polishing Kit #12525 should do the trick. If it is a more severe scratch that CAN be felt w/ your fingernail then the Deep Scratch Kit #12526 would be the appropriate kit. Not being able to see the severity of the scratch it is too hard for us to guarantee your success but most scratches can be removed w/ either of these kits. Keep in mind, removing a scratch from glass is NOT a quick process & depending on the severity of the scratch CAN take a few hours or more.
  15. Question: Why is the glass still dull/hazy after using the Deep-Scratch Kit on my windshield?
    Answer: You probably need to spend more time on the final polishing step. Also, keep in mind that you can mix the compound a little thicker to increase the cutting action. Double check your RPM on the tool you are using… If you are below 1,200 RPM you can always bump it up to the 1,500-1,800 range as long as you are careful not to lean too hard & you keep the tool moving so as to prevent building up too much heat on the surface. Also during the final polishing stage be sure your tool is NOT an orbital or DA type of tool… you ONLY want a tool that spins in a "revolution" as opposed to oscillating.
  16. Question: How do I adjust my oxy-acetylene welding system to use the lead-working tip?
    Answer: Start w/ the Acetylene gas, then add the Oxygen to the mix but only to the point where you still have a "jagged flame" pattern. Once you go beyond that "jagged flame" appearance the flame will be too hot & the lead-working tip will be of no use.
  17. Question: What is the difference between the LEAD-FREE solder & the traditional stuff?
    Answer:
    Which one is better? Both products are excellent products & you wouldn't go wrong w/ either one.

    Which one should I use? If the area is a high stress area that requires MORE strength in the repair area you might want to consider the NEW lead-free product as it has a much higher tensile strength (9000+PSI vs. 6100) than the traditional lead. Also, if there is existing traditional lead in the area you are working in you would want to stick w/ the traditional lead product… (SEE BELOW)

    Can I use the NEW over top of the traditional?
    NO… The NEW lead-free product requires a much higher amount of heat to function & the extra heat would melt the traditional lead away. Click Here to learn more

  18. Question: Can I use a metal type of filler instead of lead?
    Answer: YES… MANY people are using the metalized fillers such as the All-Metal from USC & the Metal-to-Metal from Evercoat in these circumstances.
  19. Question: Which body filler is best for my application?
    Answer: There are too many variables to answer this question accurately & cover all the different needs of our customers. We recommend you contact a member of our Technical Assistance Dept so that they can work with you to come up with the best option(s) to fit your needs.

  20. Question: Why doesn’t the DeVilbiss supplied DeKups adapter #DPC-10 fit my DeVilbiss Starting Line Full-Size gun?
    Answer: According to Devilbiss, the DPC-10 (#50294) is the correct adaptor for the Full Size Starting Line Guns. There is a perception that it does not seat completely into the gun. We have tried this adaptor in our R&D shop and it worked fine without any leaks. It does give you the impression that it is not seated completely, but it is enough for painting. Do not over tighten the adaptor as you could potentially damage the threads in either the gun or adaptor.