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Solvent pop or fisheye in your paint
Auto Paints & Painting Equipment

How to Prevent and Fix Fisheyes or Solvent Pop In Paint Jobs

 You’ve followed all the steps, prepped all the surfaces, and applied the paint with care. Yet, as the layers start to dry, you notice strange imperfections emerging. Fisheyes or solvent pop —those unexpected and unwanted craters or dimples – have apparently ruined your best efforts.

If you’ve encountered this mysterious phenomenon, you’re not alone. These elusive defects can even catch the most experienced painters off guard. But don’t worry, despite their unsightly appearance, they can usually be fixed without starting all over. We’ll reveal how to correct these frustrating blemishes as well as how to avoid them in the first place.

 

 

Fisheyes or Solvent Pop?

Fisheyes and solvent pop are both types of paint defects that reveal themselves only after paint or clear coat has been applied. However, while similar in appearance, each has different causes and appearances. Fisheyes are related to contamination while solvent pop is a result of improper drying and solvent evaporation issues.

Fisheyes occur when surface contamination, such as oil, wax, or silicone, prevents the paint from adhering properly. They appear as small, circular craters with glossy edges. Solvent pop, on the other hand, happens when trapped solvents or gases beneath the paint layer escape too quickly. Like pancake batter on a hot griddle, small bubbles form on the surface as the gas escapes. This is often due to heavy paint application, improper drying, or high humidity.

Solvent pop in a painted panel

Dealing with Fisheyes

Fisheyes look like small, circular craters or dimples in the paint surface. These craters typically have a glossy or reflective appearance around the edges, giving them their signature “fish-eye” look.

To avoid fisheyes, it’s important to thoroughly clean and degrease the surface before painting. Using a silicone remover or prep solvent like Eastwood PRE can help eliminate these contaminants. Fisheye eliminator additives can also be added to the paint to help minimize their occurrence.

If you should encounter fisheyes, you can often correct the affected area without repainting the entire vehicle or panel. If they are small and isolated, you can sometimes fix them with touch-ups. Larger or more widespread fisheyes, however, may require more extensive work, including sanding and reapplying paint as outlined below:

  • Sand the damage – Begin by wet-sanding the affected area with fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., 800-1200 grit) to smooth out the fisheye marks and remove any raised edges around the dimples.
  • Clean the surface – After sanding, clean the area thoroughly to remove dust and any remaining contaminants. Use a wax and grease remover to ensure the surface is free from oil, silicone, or any other residue.
  • Include fisheye eliminator – Consider adding a fisheye eliminator to the paint or clear coat if you plan to repaint. This additive helps prevent fisheyes from forming.
  • Reapply paint – Once the area is clean and free of contaminants, apply a new layer of paint or clear coat. Make sure to apply it in thin, even layers to avoid any further issues.
fisheye effect in paint
Examples of fisheye effect in single-stage paint

Dealing with Solvent Pop

Solvent pop occurs when trapped solvent vapors or gases in the wet paint layer escape rapidly, causing bubbles or “pops” in the paint surface. The primary causes of solvent pop include improper drying or curing time, too thick an application, high humidity or low temperature, incorrect reducer/thinner ratio, and spraying too close to the surface.

To avoid solvent pop, it’s important to follow the recommended application techniques, use the correct reducer for the environmental conditions, allow for adequate drying time between coats, and avoid excessive thickness when applying paint.

If solvent pop is minor (small bubbles or pits), you may be able to fix it with localized sanding and refinishing. For larger or more severe issues, you may need to strip and repaint the area as explained below:

  • Sand the area – Use a fine-grit sandpaper (e.g., 800-1200 grit) to smooth out the solvent pop areas. Be careful not to sand too aggressively, as you don’t want to damage the surrounding paint. Small sanding blocks are great for knocking off high spots without damaging the surrounding areas.
  • Inspect the surface – After sanding, ensure that all the solvent bubbles or craters are properly smoothed out. If the pop is deep, you might need to fill it with touch-up paint or body filler.
  • Clean the surface – Once the area is sanded and smooth, clean it with a wax and grease remover to remove all dust and oils.
  • Reapply paint in thin coats – Reapply paint or clear coat in thin, even layers. Be sure to allow each layer to dry or flash properly before applying the next layer.
  • Allow full drying time – Make sure to allow ample time for the solvent to fully evaporate between layers. This will help prevent further solvent pop.

By following these steps, you can effectively correct either fisheyes or solvent pop should they appear in your work. And with proper preparation and application, you avoid them altogether to get the best overall finish on your paint job.

 

 

3 Comments

  1. once you add fish eye eliminator, your shop is contaminated and addicted to it forever . i would not recommend using it.

  2. Fisheyes can also be caused by contamination coming through your air lines or paint gun. It’s important to regularly drain your compressor and lines as well as change out moisture traps and inline air filters regularly. Clean your paint gun after each use and do a thorough cleaning by breaking down the gun, soaking it in gun cleaner, and rinsing THOROUGHLY on an as needed regular basis! The last part is very important. Also, know that certain surfaces, no matter what you do, are prone to fisheyes….such as fiberglass and most rigid plastics. Likely due to the mold release agents used in making them. With such, you may want to start with two or three light “dusting” coats allowing the proper flash time between before laying on a medium coat before going to a wet coat.

  3. You should caution that contaminating the project and/or work area with silicone almost guarantees that you will be using it forever.