Whether you’re overhauling an engine or tearing down a complete vehicle for restoration, keeping track of parts can be challenging. Especially when you’re knee deep in a pile of parts and don’t want to stop for sorting and labeling. It’s easy to tell yourself, “I’ll remember where that came from later.” I’ve fallen into that trap myself, only to find myself collecting loose hardware and wondering where it came from.
One key, of course, is to keep everything grouped while you’re disassembling, then immediately reassemble what you can immediately afterward. And that’s a good starting point, for sure. But at some point you’re bound to have loose parts that don’t reattach, or forget altogether what the assembly is. And that’s where diligent labeling becomes important.
Over the course of several years working on my project off and on, I’ve been conscientious about labeling as much as I can. It started with the multitude of wiring connections, knowing full-well the entire harness would be coming out. Once I got into the dashboard and under the hood, it became important to document the names and locations of specific assemblies. And once I had stacks of loose assemblies, I needed to group them in storage containers for easy location later.
All of this required good labeling, and I’m happy to say I’ve become quite disciplined in doing so. Here’s what I’ve learned along the way, including supplies and practices.
What to Label
As knowledgeable as you may think you are, it’s best to assume you’ll forget everything when it’s time to rebuild. Beyond ridiculously obvious items – alternator, carburetor, rearview mirror – it’s wise to label anything that might raise questions in the future. This includes:
- Electrical connections – Label any switch, relay, or accessory you disconnect from a main wiring harness. You may not need to label the radio itself, but you should certainly mark the harness side of the connection for its component.
- Trim hardware – Interior and exterior trim hardware is often very specific to a location, so label not only the part but also where you found it.
- Anything with specific location or orientation – Left-hand and right-hand versions of a part may look the same until you go to assemble, for instance. Labeling things accurately saves time and frustration down the road.
- Potentially irreplaceable items – If it’s no longer available or cost-prohibitive to replace, make sure you know what (and where) it is.
- Storage bins and boxes – I’m currently up to 20 identical 27-gallon storage bins for my loose project parts. Without labels on each one, it could a take significant amount of time just to locate what I’m looking for when I need it.
How to Label
Good labeling requires a bit of planning. In a pinch, painter’s tape or masking tape is fine, but it’s a last resort for me. I prefer a combination of small moisture-proof plastic labels, larger cardboard inventory tags, and plastic bags for parts. For bins, I mark each base and lid with a number and mark the contents on a paper label. Here’s my general list of supplies:
- Computer/electronic cable labels – These small self-adhesive “flags” are made of plastic and hold up better to movement and moisture over time. Ideal for wiring harnesses, in particular.
- Cardboard inventory tags – Small ones are roughly the size of a business card and attach with a metal wire. These are great for larger components and assemblies.
- Clear zip-lock bags – Bags are great when you have an assortment of identical hardware (i.e., body side molding clips). They’re also a reliable way to keep small assemblies together when they’re apart.
- Storage totes – I’m not a fan of the way cardboard boxes hold up over time in a garage environment. Plastic tubs are stronger, retain their shape indefinitely, and stack neatly regardless of what’s inside. The most common sizes (17 to 27 gallons) are inexpensive, typically running between just $10 and $15 each.
- Permanent markers – An assortment of Sharpies in a variety of tip sizes works best. Pencil never reads well, and greasy hands smudge most ink pens. Think beyond black; use different colors for different component groups. Also, a silver Sharpie works great on dark surfaces where black can get lost.
What to Put on Labels
What you write on the label can be as important as the label material itself. Different parts have different qualities worth noting, but here are some typical things I include whenever space allows.
- Full part name – Seems obvious, but sometimes you forget what you’re looking at when it’s just a loose part on the bench. If you can read the part number, write it down too.
- Orientation or location – Left and right matters for a lot of parts, and it’s not always obvious. It might be worth noting other details like the order of assembly or the routing of a wire.
- Original finish – On a restoration, everything you touch might be rusty. But during disassembly you might catch a spot of the original finish. Note it while you see it.
- Refinish or replace – Even if you know you’re going to replace a part, it’s good to hold onto the original for reference. Labeling the original as if you’re keeping it is smart, because you just never know. Even a “save for reference” note can be a handy reminder.
- Date of removal – If you’re taking reference pictures as you go (you are taking pictures, right?), then knowing when a part was removed can help you find the appropriate reference pictures in your phone or photo library later.
Labeling parts while you work may seem tedious in the moment, but good habits early on pay dividends later. Get ahead of it early and your project will go much smoother.