A classic bomber-style seat is one of the most eye-catching details you can add to a show car. Whether you’re building an old-school hot rod or going for a stripped-down, basic performance aesthetic, nothing really compares. Anyone can buy a ready-to-install bomber seat from numerous venders, but you can also make one.
In this step-by-step project, master fabricator Jamey Jordan will show you how build your own bomber seat from scratch. This project requires just a single 4-foot by 4-foot piece of sheet aluminum to build. In addition to some basic shop tools, it also requires the use of several specialized fabrication tools.
Below are the top, materials, and the process required to make your own seat. Follow along as Jamey Jordan shows you how it happens in the video below:
Bomber Seat Tools
- Sheet Metal Layout Kit
- Throatless Shear
- 48” Box and Pan Brake
- Motorized Bead Roller
- JJ Bead Roller Dies
- Dimple Die Set
- Professional Mini Belt Sander
- Blind Grip Panel Holders
- Solid Rivet Gun Kit
Bomber Seat Materials
- 48” x 48” sheet 18ga aluminum
- Solid rivets
Procedure
- Cut a piece of sheet aluminum for the seat base
- Using layout tools, mark out the centerline, bend lines, cut lines, and rivet lines on the panel with a permanent marker
- Mark the rivet hole locations using the special straightedge tool, making sure to also mark the centerline from the edge
- Use a centerpunch to start the rivet holes
- Cut any corners as well as notches where the panel will fold
- Use an angle grinder and a file to clean up any edges after cutting
- Drill the rivet holes with the correct-size bit for the rivets to be used
- On the brake, bend the edge flanges first, then the 70º seat bend, and finally the front lip
- Lay the seat frame on its side on top of the second piece of material for the side panel
- Trace the shape of the seat frame onto the panel
- Use a flexible piece of metal to trace out a natural curve for the seat side
- Use a French curve tool to mark out the ends of the seat side
- Trim the blank seat side panel with an initial cut on the throatless shear, leaving a generous allowance around the edge for fine trimming
- Use the throatless shear to carefully trim the contour of the seat edge to its exact shape
- With the side panel trimmed, use it as a pattern to mark out a second panel
- Cut and trim the second side panel using the same procedure as the first
- Drill through an original rivet hole at the bottom corner of the seat frame to create a hole in the side panel
- Insert a Cleco panel holder to lock the panels together before drilling additional holes in the side panel
- Work from alternating ends to the center when drilling additional holes to ensure the seat frame stays aligned
- Once a couple holes are drilled and fastened on each edge, drill the remaining holes in the side panel
- Repeat this process for the other side, leaving the first panel fastened to the frame
- When all holes are drilled, remove the Clecos and debur all the drill holes
- Cut and mark out the blank panel for the “change stealer” insert panel
- Mark out center punch marks for dimple die locations before applying any bead rolling
- Use a bead roller to trace a recess into the insert panel
- Bend the corners of the insert panel to match the angle of the seatback
- Drill holes for the dimple dies and punch the openings in the insert panel
- Use a solid rivet tool to join the panels through all the pre-drilled rivet holes
- Once assembled, debur all edges
Video