Replicating an original chrome-plated finish with paint can be difficult, but that’s why Eastwood developed the Liquid Chrome system. Intended to recreate the bright, smooth appearance of chrome trim, it’s been a staple of the lineup for years. This system uses a micro-fine metallic silver paint followed by high-gloss, optically clear protective coating.
Even as powder coating and vinyl wraps have improved, there are still situations where chrome paint is a better option. Some of the best uses for Liquid Chrome or other chrome-like paints is on plastic trim, where powder coating isn’t possible.
Pieces like the raised chrome accents on dashboards and door cards are great examples. So too are reflective surfaces like those inside taillight and turn signal housings. Other uses might include re-chroming raised lettering on badges or inserts on body side moldings.
While the results are noticeably better than simply using silver paint, the process does take some patience. Preparation of the parts to be painted is critical, especially getting a smooth surface. It’s important to understand that Liquid Chrome is a unique system and must be followed according to its instructions. Be patient, and you’ll be rewarded. Rush it, and you’ll likely be disappointed.
How to Apply Liquid Chrome
Preparation
Applying Liquid Chrome is essentially like creating a mirror surface. It requires an absolutely smooth surface for maximum reflectivity. Therefore, thorough preparation is key to achieving great results.
Remove any corrosion from the surface of metal parts before proceeding. If needed, sand and polish the surface to the smoothest surface possible. Any surface imperfections will likely transfer through the finishing process. The same is true of plastic surfaces, which must be smooth and shiny before application.
Black Base Layer
Spray an initial layer (not a ‘base coat’) of gloss black paint on the part. A deep, high-gloss single-stage urethane such as Eastwood’s 2K Boulevard Black is preferable. This will not only provide a great reflective surface but also reduce the chances for paint compatibility issues. Do not apply a black ‘base coat’ finish or any matte, satin, flat or textured paints for this initial layer.
Allow the black paint to cure fully before applying the Almost Chrome silver paint. If the black layer is rough or dull, sand with fine paper (2000 grit or higher) and/or polish to get better gloss or smoothness.
Almost Chrome Silver
The silver component of Almost Chrome should be sprayed with an airbrush if possible. However, if you don’t have an airbrush, an HVLP detail gun with a 1.0mm tip or smaller will also work.
Mask for any areas that are not to be painted using a low-tack painter’s tape. With a lint-free wipe or microfiber towel, remove any dust or debris from the black-painted part. Shake the Almost Chrome silver paint well to mix, then immediately pour an adequate amount into your spray gun cup.
Test the spray pattern on a scrap before painting the part, ensuring only a very fine mist is applied. Overlap each coat by about 50% to achieve full coverage without any streaks. Apply multiple thin coats to achieve full coverage. Heavy application with cause runs and drips that will be difficult to blend or remove.
Allow the last coat of silver to dry for 12 to 24 hours before applying the clear coat. When dry, the silver should not be tacky or soft at all.
Almost Chrome Clear
It’s critical that seal the silver finish using only Almost Chrome’s clear coat component. Other types of clear coat finishes often dull or darken the metallic finish. The application process for this clear coat is essentially the same as for the silver. Multiple thin coats with ample flash time (5-10 minutes) in between will get better results than fewer heavy coats.
Before spraying clear, wipe the silver painted surfaces with a soft cloth to remove any dry overspray. Allow each coat of clear to flash before applying the next. Allow the clear to dry at least 12 hours before handling and reassembly. For best results, use a non-abrasive detailing polish to achieve greater depth once the clear coat has cured completely.
It’s a tough finish to capture in pictures, for sure. It’s far more reflective than argent silver. Prep is everything with this finish.
That looks nothing like chrome, might as well just paint argent silver.