All too often, we reach for the can of Rust Encapsulator to treat corroded metal after it’s already pretty crusty. Or maybe even too far gone to save. But if you’re on top of your maintenance game, you can actually prevent the big rust from ever arriving. After reclaiming my former daily driver from my daughter, I noticed the trailer hitch receiver was more orange than black. This got me wondering about the condition on the rest of the underside.
To my surprise, the factory finish on the 19-year-old chassis was almost entirely still intact, even though the odometer is quickly approaching 200,000 miles. Credit the fact this vehicle spent the first three quarters of its life in Georgia. Nevertheless, rust had started to form on several sections toward the rear. The only truly surprising component was the steel wheel that holds the underside-mounted spare tire. Here, corrosion took hold with a vengeance as the original finish had long ago given up.
I felt relieved that three Pennsylvania winters’ worth of road brine hadn’t completely destroyed my frame. Admittedly, they’ve been three of the mildest winters in recent history. Recognizing I was still ahead of the curve, I decided to nip the problem in the bud and treat the rust before it blossoms. I grabbed a can of Rust Encapsulator Plus and got to work. Here’s how you can do the same.
Supplies
- Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Plus (1 can)
- Eastwood Pre Prep Solvent (1 can) or other surface prep solvent
- Eastwood Concours Tear-off Microfiber Towels or other clean shop towels
- Wire brush (for scraping loose flaky rust from surfaces)
- Scuff pad (for removing loose scale in areas the brush can’t reach)
- Nitrile rubber gloves
Process
- Make sure the surfaces are generally clean and dry before you start.
- Work in a well-ventilated area and wear appropriate breathing protection.
- Use the wire brush and/or scuff pad to remove any loose, flaky corrosion from the surface.
- Spray or wipe the scrubbed surfaces with prep solvent and a clean towel to remove any grease or oils, as well as any debris from scuffing.
- Allow solvent to fully flash before masking or spraying.
- Mask any areas you don’t want exposed to Rust Encapsulator. I masked the spare tire and the rear bumper near the hitch and recovering point opening.
- Shake the can of Rust Encapsulator until it fully blends and the mixing ball moves freely in the can. Rust Encapsulator Plus has a very high solids content and took about 2 minutes of shaking to get fiully mixed.
- Spray Rust Encapsulator on all the cleaned and prepared surfaces. Different variations of Rust Encapsulator (Original, Plus, Platinum) have different times for re-application and drying. Re-apply as needed, following the instructions for the version you’re using.
- Wipe any unwanted overspray immediately with a solvent and a towel.
- Check your coverage before removing any masking.
Tips for Best Results
- The spray tip can easily become loaded with material while working. Wrap a clean towel around the can wile working to catch any drips as you spray.
- Between coats and after completion, remove the spray tip and clean it with solvent to prevent clogging.
- Use a work light to check for coverage, as spraying black paint in a dark space can be deceiving.
- Spray Rust Encapsulator on a foam brush to cover areas that aren’t sprayable, such as the tops of frame rails
