Our Infrared Lights will cure parts too large to fit in your oven, or take the place of an oven. Infrared light cures the powder from the outside, without heating the entire piece totally through. Conventional paint, gaskets, or plastic items close to the surface to be cured, or attached to thin gauge metal, should first be removed. The infrared light generates high temperatures. For best results, follow the enclosed directions. The medium wave-length (2.35 micron) light heats the surface quicker than an enclosed oven, so accurate temperature control, light positioning, and movement are crucial to properly cure the powder without burning the coating. Small items will cure in about 6-15 minutes, while large parts may require 2-6 hours (total elapsed time).
To achieve professional results, it is very important to follow all the guidelines for part hanging, light distance and temperature monitoring. The medium wavelength (2.35 micron) light brings the focused surface up to temperature quicker than an enclosed oven. Because of this, accurate temperature control, light positioning and movement are crucial to properly cure the powder without burning the coating. Small items such as valve covers and small brackets will cure in about 6-15 minutes while large parts such as rear housing, driveshafts or motorcycle frames will cure in about 2-6 hours (total elapsed time). To cure large parts, this lamp unit must be repositioned periodically until the entire surface of the part has been cured.
Assemble the Light Stand according to the instructions provided with the stand. Remove packing foam from behind elements and tape securing wire guard to housing. Caution: Heating elements are fragile – handle with care!
Attach Arm Assembly to the light utilizing the supplied hardware. Slide the Arm Assembly over upright on stand and tighten lock handle securely at desired height. The angle of the light can be easily adjusted by loosening the knob located on the back of the light housing. Once the light is positioned at the desired angle or orientation, tighten the knob securely.
TECH TIP: An old automotive wheel or sandbags can be positioned on the stand for added stability and safety.
NOTE: Prep all parts as per the HotCoat Powder Coating Instructions
One of the best methods for applying powder and for using the light for curing is by fastening a strong wire “clothesline” in your ventilated shop or garage (photo #3). This can be done with heavy wire such as our #.041 Safety Wire (#43045). Simply run the wire between garage door tracks or fasten securely with eye bolts into wall studs. Large heavy items should be supported on bricks or stone blocks covered with aluminum foil to prevent static attraction of dust onto your piece. Added stability will then be provided by securing the item to your wire “clothesline”. (photo #4).
Any auto body bench can also be used to support small parts during powder coating application and curing as shown in photo #5. Follow the instructions included with your stand for set-up and assembly. The items can be suspended with wire either vertically or horizontally. Wrap your stand with aluminum foil to eliminate powder overspray build up from curing on your stand.
The infrared light is designed to be utilized at a distance of 3-6" from the object and parallel to the piece to be cured. The light should be periodically positioned and moved around the object as instructed in the curing section. Use an appropriate outlet. Plug the light into a 15 amp, 110 volt circuit, turn on switch, and allow 3-5 minutes for the light to come up to temperature. If you find an area or object demands the light to be FURTHER than 6" adjust the time to meet the temperature in the chart outlined in the curing section page 2.
Objects such as a rear axle (photo 4), driveshaft (photo 9) or any other object that is powdercoated on all sides, must be cured from all sides. In order to cure all surfaces of the object, the light must be moved. This is accomplished by moving the light from the bottom of the object to the top (if hung vertically) or from one end to the other (if hung horizontally), allowing the light to bring the surface up to one of the cure temperatures and then held on that spot for the recommended time. Continually monitor the temperature and adjust your timer as you move the light along. After completing one side, move down the other to completely cure the object.
Some thin gauge objects may cure the powder outside the light’s focus area. This can be checked and verified with the infrared thermometer. If this is the case, simply move the light through this area into the next uncured area, once you have achieved the proper cure time.
The infrared thermometer is used to get accurate temperature readings from your object. With these readings, refer to the appropriate chart on page 8 to select cure time (for more details on using these charts refer to “Curing With Your Infrared Light” section). Temperature readings are taken as close to the light-heated area as possible (no more than 3-6" from object). Use common sense when taking temperature readings. Always use heavy leather gloves or welding gloves to protect hands from the heat and never place hands in front of the light when taking readings (to prevent heat burns).
Continued on page 2
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