Get a quart of white rustoleum oilbased primer (for lite rust) .get sponge style rollers as well. Cut primer appropriately to max amount with approved product.states on label. Roll as much as possible and try to not double coat any areas.cover bed to avoid any rain and place fan or blower on tailgate to speed dry time. Once fully dry use foam brushes to apply primer to missed areas as rolling second coat primer with new sponges.use roller to cleanup and blend any runs or excess from foam brush.apply coat 3 if desired.wait a week b4 sanding for paint and 24 or 48hours(says on can)..AFTER SANDING to apply whatever finish. The sanded newly exposed primer must AIROUT n recure.. <very important. This is the best primer ....most universal with absolute adhesion and durability. Budget friendly and available any hardware store that sells paint. Also R.oleum brush black rust converter paint with half black car frame or something on picture is incredible.very thin product that also brush /roll on And is applied direct to exposed metal.dont prime. Dries to awesome matte like rubber coating that stays where applied...even after years Of tossing concrete tools ..smaller chunks Crete..dirt..gravel. Other products will fail. If desired etch with Muratic acid b4 hand and wash thoroughly After.

This really isn't intended for use on bare clean metal. If you want an etching AND protective agent for bare clean metal- our After Blast would be best.

Yes, this is even sold in our Gas tank sealer kit. You do need to flush out the tank with Acetone after.

This product should not be used on chrome plates surfaces.

We have no data / testing results for welding. If cleaned correctly with Pre and acetone there should be no residue to burn. Best to avoid the scenario. Could create hazardous fumes.

Neutralizing needs to occur with either our PRE painting prep or Acetone.

It does not. Standard PRE or Acetone should be used in this scenario.

You can spray on more Fast Etch to reactivate it.