At Eastwood, with our selection of products, there are certain questions that we hear over and over. To help eliminate any confusion, I thought it would be a good idea to share the top-6 questions and our responses. If you have any additional questions, remember we are here to help you - feel free to call our tech line or post your questions on Eastwood Shop Talk (our free forum), and one of our experts will get back to you.

Question: What is the difference between Rust Encapsulator & Rust Converter?

Answer: Rust Converter is designed to chemically CONVERT the rust into an inert black polymeric coating that seals the rust from air & moisture prior to priming orpainting. Rust Encapsulator is a coating that can be applied directly over existing rust & stops the rust by sealing out the air & moisture, essentially "suffocating" the rust. The Rust Encapsulator also acts as a primer for pretty much ANY coating you wish to apply over top, including body fillers.

Which one should I use for my application? For HEAVY rust we recommend the Rust Converter first, followed by the Rust Encapsulator to seal & prime the surface. For light to medium rust the Rust Encapsulator will perform flawlessly when the guidelines for application are followed. Please note: IF there is NO rust present, we do NOT recommend the use of the Rust Encapsulator


Question: What is the difference between Rust Dissolver & Fast-Etch?

Answer: The Rust Dissolver is a NON-acid based product designed more for the soaking of parts for an extended period of time, overnight in some applications. The Fast Etch is an acid based product designed for application ONTO a surface for a short period of time, typically 20-30 minutes.

Which one should I use for my application? For small parts & items that can be removed from the vehicle as well as items that could be damaged by exposure to the acid in the Fast Etch, the Rust Dissolver would be the better choice. For larger surfaces such as doors, hoods, fenders, etc the Fast Etch would be the better option.


Question: Can I use a brush to apply the Chassis Black in the Quart can?

Answer: Both the Chassis Black & EXTREME Chassis Black products are pre-thinned for spray-on application. However, they CAN be applied via brush but you may experience some appearance of brush-strokes after the product has cured. If brushing, try a foam brush to eliminate brush marks.


Question: How much of the Eastwood Single-Stage Urethane paint will I need?

Answer:
Primer? Typically 1 GALLON sized kit of the epoxy primer is MORE than enough… A kit would be: 1-Gal of the primer + 1 GAL of the catalyst.

Paint? Anything considered MID-SIZE car or larger would require 2 kits (kit contains 1-GAL of paint w/ 1 QT of activator).

Clear? MOST vehicles require 1 GAL of clear + the 2 QTS of activator.


Question: Will either the Deep-Scratch Kit or Glass Polishing Kit remove the scratches in my windshield?

Answer: If the scratch CANNOT be caught or felt w/ your fingernail then the Glass Polishing Kit #40011 should do the trick. If it is a more severe scratch that CAN be felt w/ your fingernail then the Deep Scratch Kit #40030 would be the appropriate kit. Not being able to see the severity of the scratch it is too hard for us to guarantee your success but most scratches can be removed w/ either of these kits. Keep in mind, removing a scratch from glass is NOT a quick process & depending on the severity of the scratch CAN take a few hours or more.


Question: How big of an air-compressor do I need to run a Soda Blaster?

Answer: That will depend upon which unit you purchase & what nozzle size you are using while blasting. The #50095 & #50096 blaster will operate on as little as 7CFM but not as efficiently or effectively as some would like. Therefore, we recommend having a compressor that has an output of @ least 10-12CFM @ 80-90PSI to do the job right. The LARGER #11804 Soda Blaster requires a minimum of 18-20CFM @ 80-90PSI to perform to the user's expectations

Question: Which Soda Blaster do I need for my project?

Answer: For a smaller project or occasional projects you should be fine w/ either the #50095 or #50096 unit. If you are going to be doing soda blasting on a more consistent basis or as a side business you may want to consider upgrading to the #11804 blaster.

   
Question: How big of an air-compressor do I need to run a Soda Blaster?

Answer: For paint removal on sheet metal go w/ the "XL" soda media #11807… for more delicate surfaces such as fiberglass & wood you would go with the "M" soda media #11806.

Question: How big of an air-compressor do I need to run a Soda Blaster?
Answer:
For paint removal on sheet metal go w/ the "XL" soda media #11807… for more delicate surfaces such as fiberglass & wood you would go with the "M" soda media #11806.

Click here for more Soda Blasting info and FAQ's.